Venting a wood burning stove.

I recently purchased a wood burning stove to use in emergencys to heat the house for 1 or 2 days every 5 years or so when the power goes out. After I bought the stove, I learned all about chimmeys/cost and good draft. So I'm a thinking and stewing bout all this stuff and looking to bend the rules and still be safe and practical. I don't want to spend $1000 to $1500 for a chimmey that will rarely get used. I want to vent the stack out of the forbidden window, by opening the window pane completely then fabricating a temporary replacement window panel made with plywood (or wonder board) and sheet metal. The panel would leave plenty of sheetmetal and fire resistence room surrounding the vent that would pass through this panel. I suspect that few people would recommend this method to me but still I would like some feedback on my idea. I would slope the horizontal pipe upward say 25 to 45 degrees as it passes thru the prefab window opening. And I want to cap the vent just outside the window, at this skewed angle. In other words, I do not want to run the vent outside and up the house. Total pipe estimates are 6' of pipe. That is 3 ft vertical from stove top, then a 45 degree elbow, then 3 feet horitontal to the wall/window and out, with a cap on the end. This is 6 pipe as called for on this 96,000 btu unit. I got this idea from my 40,000 btu gas hanging ceiling furnace in my garage. It is vented to a nearby wall and capped to be flush with the exterior wall of the house. So the vent is exiting the house perpedicular to the house and that is also the direction the cap is mounted. I have a c02 detector in the garage and have never had any downdraft or blowback from this vent in over 5 years. So naturally I am thinking this stub of a stove pipe sticking out the window will provide draft also. My house exterior is asbestos shingles, so it is fire resistent. And their is no eve over this one window. The house trim is all covered with metal trim installed by a sideing installer, thus another fire resistent surface. This would allow me to use plain black pipe instead of the expensive double wall pipe. Of course I would protect the interior hardwood floors and walls with wonder (concrete) board. What da ya think? Any show stoppers there? Also, why do 'they' require black pipe instead of galvanized duct? My Home Depot does not carry black stove pipe. Lugnut It all sounds good, but you are probably violating about umpteen fire and building codes, and endangering you and your family, not to mention voiding your homeowners fire insurance in case of a loss. If you're going to install a woodstove, whether it is ever used or not, install it to code for safety, or not at all. If you need a temporary heating source every five years or so, consider a ventless 3-brick gas wall heater and a small propane tank. Much more energy efficient than a wood stove, will heat as much space as a woodstove, is much more safer. AND it won't void your insurance or endanger anyone. Just my two cents. Good luck! Mike Thanks oldGuy, Thats good advice and well said. I'll be happy to keep your 2 cents worth any day of the week! I always listen to sound practical advice and you gave me a good dose of reality. But still, the mischevious side of me takes over from time to time. I do have alternative forms of room emergency heat, but still I'd like to think of the wood stove as the ultimate backup heater. Thanks Lugnut Cool, Lug! Just don't want you to burn you and yours out. Kerosene heaters are also an inexpensive emergency backup. (But they give ME a headache. LOL) Mike Hello The Old Guy is right on again....But I must add....Don't do it... sell the the stove safe the money and if and when you need the heat take the money and go get a nice room and kick back......Good Luck

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