Ryobi CS30 Won't idle/Bogs down on Accel
I have a one year old CS30 and since day one it hasn't run right. It starts quickly but once it warms up it won't idle and wants to shut down when I give it gas. Unless it's wide open it won't run. I tried some one elses suggestion on cleaning out the spark arrestor and exhaust port but they're clean. You will probably need to clean and put a new diaphgram and gasket kit in the carb and while you're at it check the fuel lines. Take a picture or draw a diagram of the fuel lines before you remove them, for reference on reassemble. Even though the trimmer is only 1yr old to you the carb may have set on the shelf a long time before it was put in the mfg process and the diaphgram had dried and stiffened. Make sure your fuel is fresh(fresh from the pump not fresh from a can that has set since last year). Have a good one. Geo Thanks Geo. I actually thought of that, I had the same problem with an old Toyota pickup truck, but I didn't think the diaphram could go bad so quickly, but you make sense about not knowing how long that part sat around before it got used. Now all I have to do is figure out get the air filter housing off. I can't see what's holding it on - the only fasteners I can see are in the housing behind the foam filter. There are two nuts fastened to two studs going through the carb into the intake port. I can't see anything else that could be keeping he housing from coming off. Look at pg. 19, cut and paste Here's the URL for the owner's manual: http://oneworld1.inetu.net/manuals/r...00_401_eng.pdf Have a good one. Geo Originally Posted by geogrubb Look at pg. 19, cut and paste Here's the URL for the owner's manual: http://oneworld1.inetu.net/manuals/r...00_401_eng.pdf Have a good one. Geo Thanks, Geo, but page 19 only shows get the front cover off to service the filter, but not get the entire housing to come off. There are two studs with nuts behind the filter. These two studs seemingly attach the housing and carb in place on the engine block. But even with those nuts removed the housing won't budge. the entire carb will rotate a tiny bit but that's it. Well, I called Ryobi to get a diaphram for the carb and they told me they don't sell carb parts - had to buy a whole new carb for $50. What a racket. I'll never buy another Ryobi lawn tool again. A lot of manufacturers don't offer carb parts, becasue they don't make the carbs. The carburetor is a walbro or zama, and parts are available from them or most any small engine shop. An entire rebuild kit should be around $15 or less. Picksix The 2 studs you found are the ones that hold the carb on, it may be stuck and take a little pressure to break loose from the crankcase. Be sure to diagram your fuel line routes for reassembly. Have a good one. Geo Thanks, Geo. I'll give it a nother shot tonight. And thanks to Cheese also for the carb mfgr info. After you determine the carb mgf. walbro/zama find the carb type and number. It will probably be a zama you can go to either mgf site and find tons of info. kits numbers for rebuilt or just diaphgram and gasket, I would say as new as your trimmer is you will just need a diaphgram kit. The sites; www.zamacarb.com then select service/aftermarket and www.walbro.com then select service/aftermarket. Have a good one. Geo Originally Posted by geogrubb After you determine the carb mgf. walbro/zama find the carb type and number. It will probably be a zama you can go to either mgf site and find tons of info. kits numbers for rebuilt or just diaphgram and gasket, I would say as new as your trimmer is you will just need a diaphgram kit. The sites; www.zamacarb.com then select service/aftermarket and www.walbro.com then select service/aftermarket. Have a good one. Geo Yep - I did a lot of searching and found both sites already. And as you said it's probably a Zama. I just need to get home and look for the model/series number on the carb (apparently the numbers are split up and located in two different spots on the carb) so I can order the right parts. As far as I can tell they only come in kits. But for about $10 I don't mind having a few extra parts - I'm sure I'll need them evetually. After you get the number, it will probably be a CU1 something , you can go to the zama site to find the number for the diaphgram kit, if you have a local small engine shop or lawn service dealer, they will have the kit and you won't have to pay shipping. Have a good one. Geo Well, I got the carb off and got the numbers so I know what to order from zamacarb.com. But I took it apart and checked out both the surge and metering/pump diaphrams and I have to say they both look good. I held them up to very bright light and saw no imperfections or holes or anything. I'll still get the new ones because I know there could be damage under the metal partof the metering diaphram that won't shine through behind a light, but I have a strong feeling the problem is not the diaphrams but with the mixture adjustment. My next job is to find a tool that will fit in the narrow housing to reach those adjustment screws. The carb is a CU1-H62. It's not holes that create the problem with the diaphgram it's flexability. Have a good one. Geo Well, asfter doing nothing more than replacing the fuel with premium and Ryobi synthetic two-stroke oil the machine runs much better and actually idles now, although it still wants to stall when I give it gas. I'm still trying to locate a tool to reach teh idel mixture screws - after exhastive searching I can't believe nobody has this. [ I had the same problem and on mine all I did is remove the cover for the start/run switch. It was stripped in the inside and was jammed , so no advance from choke. I used pliers to put switch in run position and have not had a problem since. Good luck and hope this helps, I had carb apart and al , just wound up putting all that back together...mike
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