I was just wondering what the best chemicals are to use in my hot tub. I'm using Baqua Spa right now and it works ok I'm just wondering if I should be using something else. That was the system the previous homeowner was using so I just continued using it. Just figured I would see if there is a better way.Thanks
I started with chorine. Then I used the Baqua system for a couple years. Now I use Nature2 and ozone. The Nature2 cartridge lasts 3 months and sits inside on of my filters and slowly releases silver ions to sanitize the water. The ozone is also working 24/7 to sanitize. The only thing I do with the spa is shock it once a week. Very low maintenance.
Just remember to drain and refill any spa only body of water , no matter what Chemical is used. It is very important to refresh the entire body of water depending on use. smaller bodies are harder to keep balenced. Just like in Nature. A pond can be self cleaning but a puddle scums up quickly Note: alot of people complain of getting rash's and such because they keep filling water that evaporates and just adding chemicals. I have been told by Homeowners that their water is crystal clear, but dont understand why their heater element failed or have pin hole leaks. After taking a water sample to the closest store to be checked , found out that you can clean jewlery in it, Seriously!! I have to respond sure its clear but so is acid.. nothing grows in that either. Water evaporates, chemicals and other particals don't! as these build up problems arise that can effect skin and even health. Commercial spa's are to be drained and filled on a daily basis because of this.. heath department demands it! Just food for thought Richard
i bought a dining table and 6 chairs made out of unfinished parawood - the one that comes from plantations in malaysia. i stained them using an oil-based stain. the result were really blotchy especially on the chairs. i have 6 very different looking chairs!! i didnt preseal or apply a sanding sealer bcoz i was told that parawood is a very dense wood that stains well. i sanded to 220 grit b4 applying the stain. the 2nd coat didnt help at all. after 1 coat of thinned polyurethane i do not see any difference in the uneven tone of the wood. what shud i do to even out the color? i have 2 dark and 4 light toned chairs. will applying polyshades help even things out? i can try a darker shade than my current stain, to cover up the blotchiness. but b4 i do that i wanted to get expert advice help!!! thanks, nams
I have bought and finished various unfinished pieces that I believe are made from the same type of wood. The only problem I had was it tended to stain light as it wouldn't obsorb as much stain as oak would. Usually 1 coat of stain is all that wood is given prior to sealing. Did you wipe the excess stain off after you applied it? Since polyshades is a tinted poly, it will darken or add color to what it is applied to. I'm not sure if I know what you mean by blotchy. If it is just different colors in the grain of the wood then tinted poly will help. If you have areas that have too much stain on them you might be better off stripping them and starting over.
yes i did wipe off the stain b4 i coated the clear finish. i bought minwax polyshades in bombay mahogany but its really thick. and thats why its difficult to apply. can i thin it with mineral spirits? do i wipe it on with a foam brush? the 1st coat of polyshades tends to look pinkish. will the 2nd coat really bring out the color? thanks nams
Polyshades can be tricky to apply so [if needed] it should be thinned so it can be applied evenly. It is ok to use mineral spirits. I never use foam brushes but instead use good bristle brushes [for oil base only]. The main thing is the poly needs to be applied evenly. Polyshades is clear poly with a little color added to it. If you have any lap marks [which means that area has 2 coats] they will have more color than the rest of the wood. Did you stir the polyshades well? Each coat will add a little more color to the finish.
thanks for ur response i am a little disappointed with the results esp on the chairs. i want to start over. the problem is this is a very open grained wood and i dont know how a chmical stripper wud work on it. any ideas? thanks namrata
Think about washing them off with acetone, protect your hands of course. let dry lightly sand them with 220 , and maybe entertain the idea of using a gel stain by Woodkote I would apply the stain using a technique called dry brushing. It lets you move the stain where you want and where you don't . let the stain dry.then finish as you would with any oil based product.
I'd for get the Polyshade idea. stripper is a harsh way to go , look at my above post, and if you wanted to to a little more to some color out give them a bath with warm water and TSP. dry and then move on....you'll never get all the color out and return to square one , you can only proceed with damage control.....Good luck !
Definitely to fix this, I agree - acetone and then sand after it dries. And anytime staining parawood, use gel stain. Woodcaft has some really good gel stain. And as a side note, rule of thumb is never switch brands half way through either (I know you didn't do that - just for anyone else reading this) - i.e. pre-treat, stain and then seal all with the same brand, start to finish, whatever the brand is. One other tip - don't sand with any grey sanding media. I used a grey sanding sponge, and I wound up with what looked like white chalky powder under the polyurethane. I had to sand down, acetone, re-stain and re-coat - ARGHHH. Stick with the orange/yellow or tan sand papers.
Welcome to the forums wspier! There shouldn't be any problem switching brands of poly as long as they are of the same base [all oil base or all waterbased] It is natural for white dust to be a by product of sanding. As long as you remove the sanding dust prior to applying the next coat of poly, it shouldn't be a problem. I routinely use the sanding sponges on most any poly'd surface that isn't flat and have never had any issues.
We are finishing a dining room set in parawood. Since we wanted to make sure to get the result we were looking for we tested the underside of the table first. After buying and testing two Minwax oil stains, two Minwax Polyshades and a Minwax gel stain we did not like any of the results (and we pre conditioned the wood also). Frustrated I went searching online and came across positive comments for General Finish gel stain. After traveling 45 minutes to buy the gel stain in Java I am so happy with the result and ease, well worth the additional cost. The unfinished furniture store employee said to sand with 150 and DO NOT pre condition the wood, WOW the dining room set looks AWSOME! One coat will do it but we are going to apply a quick second coat before doing the top coat. We are also going to apply the General Finish gel top coat in the satin finish. I am so Happy with the result I will only use General Finish for future projects. I am already looking at other unfinished pieces to work on.
Welcome to the forums Grammie! While I've done my share of staining/finishing over the years I don't recall ever using any 'general finish' products but for the most part they all work the same. Generally it isn't a good idea to apply a 2nd coat of stain. Interior wood stains rely a lot on absorbtion to dry [they aren't formulated with a lot of drying agents] Because of this, it can be difficult for a 2nd coat of stain to dry. Often when applying the 1st coat of sealer/poly [over multiple coats of stain] the solvents in the poly will rewet and move some of the stain around. An oil base poly/varnish will darken the natural colors that are in the stain and wood. Waterbased polys don't change the wood color any, they also don't dry to as hard a finish as their oil base counterpart
You can't get ever wood dark enough when you use wood conditioner, so if it wasn't getting dark enough that was the whole problem.
It seems that since this wood does contain sap in the form of latex, it's possible that this is what is responsible for the inconsistent color. Like it's already unevenly preconditioned? So don't some woods benefit from a wipe down with solvent before staining?
I had to add unfinished furniture feet my parawood bed frame (already stained from the factory) to make it taller. I had to match the color of the bed frame to the feet. I used generals water based stain (and water based finish). Water based stains in this brand has more color pigment. Since I stained it dark (brown mohogony and rosewood), I DID NOT use a conditioner. I bought these colors to intermix to get the color I wanted. Since I was a hair colorist in a beauty salon this helped me get the results I wanted. The results were beautiful. If I were staining a lighter color, I would have used a conditioner, as the conditioner will soak in the wood. My husband has stained furniture in the past, and he couldn't believe my results. He never intermixed his stains!!!
Tags: staining, parawood, coat stain, more color, poly will, applied evenly, coat will, dark enough, dining room, General Finish, going apply
I've heard mixed reviews about renter's insurance. Our son is now living in Mt.Pleasant Sc. He does not have anything of much worth, besides his three computers ( 1st apartment out of college,loves computers) - He is in a second floor apartment about 5 mins. from the beach. I would like him to get renter's insurance - but, I've also heard that what it covers is not worth the premium.... Any Advice? Options?
You need to review the contract and read the fine print. I am a renter and small business owner. My rental and business are separate. My insurance agent has all my properties insured, including my car, business, and rental house. I have a separate agency insuring my mountain cabin that was in the 100 year flood of '85. Educate yourself and shop for the best insurance oportunities. Rental insurance is important and not that expensive. Get at least three quotes.
Buying insurance is gambling with the expectation you are going to lose. Your call.
More important than the contents coverage would be the liability coverage attached to the policy. Make sure the specific limit for electronics/computers is sufficient. Also in SC, make sure if you decide to make payments on the policy request direct billing (billed directly from the insurance carrier) as there will be little or no fees on the payments. If you premium finance (outside finance company through the agency) additional fees and charges will apply. The coverage should be relatively inexpensive, and worth the premium. Check with his auto insurance company to see if they offer multi - line discounts. If they don't, shop both coverages at the same time to see if the combination of the two offsets the premiums a bit (usually 5-10 %).
All - Thanks for the advice - I will tell him to check with his auto carrier, and also read the policy carefully for what it includes, and limits..... any specific insurers to stay away from- or just go with the big guys? I heard that some insurers stay away from coastal communities in hurricane areas.... Blessings,
Hello all, Has anyone ever used a one man post hole auger? If so, can you tell me your experience with them? I am looking at buying the Ardisam earthquake 9000 series. I prefer not to rent as I will be using this auger for many projects throughout the next 5 years. I am in pretty good shape, but by no means, I would say I feel like I am in my 20's again. Will I be able to handle the auger without killing myself? Secondly, I will be using the auger to dig 4X4 post holes. What size bit should I use, a 6, 8, or 10 bit? Thank you, Boomer2
A lot will depend on the soil in your area - sandy, clay, black dirt, rocky, etc. The harder/rockier the soil the harder it will be using the auger. I've used a 1-man several times in sand/dirt type soils and you'll survive but feel it. If the soil is real rocky or heavy clay you'll be looking for friends to come take turns real quick. Not sure what size would be best depends on how much concrete you want to put around the post - probably 8-10.
I'd recommend 10. It gives you more room to make minor adjustments when aligning the posts. I suppose if you were on level ground and were very careful drilling, you could get away with 8. But on sloped ground, I found I had better luck with the 10 holes I drilled. I rented something called a little beaver - it was a one-man auger where the engine was on a rolling base. It was still physically challenging. I also think if you get an auger with hydraulics you are better off. That way you have a reverse gear. The one we rented did not - when we wrapped around a root I had to use a pipe wrench to back it off. Good luck, Gerry
Thank you both for the tips. I looked at the little beaver and it was pretty pricey. The Ardisam seems like the best deal going. I will be digging in heavy clay but the ground has very little rock. Since my land is flat, I think I will try and start off with an 8 auger bit. If anyone else has any experience pr tips with a one man auger please let me know. Boomer2
It might be worth it to rent one for an hour or find a place that will let you return it. With heavy clay you might find a one man auger a lot of work.
I used a one-man hydraulic auger to dig 8 posts for our fence. We have clay soil in our area and I have to say there is no way it could have been done with just one person. The size of hole is determined by the size of the post. You want your hole to be at least 2x the size of the post.
Ok, I am getting the feeling that the one-man option is out of the question. This is a bummer as my property is located in another state from where I am currently living and I do not know anyone up there to help me. My only option is work at the gym for 3 months and go from there. Does anyone know of any good back exercises I know I am going against everyone's advice, but if I had to buy a one-man auger what model should I buy. A hydralic model is out of the question as they cost $1500 minimal used. Has anyone ever used the Ardisam Earthquake? They seem the most reasonable. Boomer2
Well,this is a year late but I hopeyou didnt buy the earthquake auger.its cheap but you get what you pay for.Its gear driven and the gears dont last long.
Just rent a one-man hydraulic or a dingo with an auger attachment? I was able to dig 45 holes in an 8 hour day with the Dingo and could have gone faster if I had more carefully marked the hole locations ahead of time.
Tags: post, hole, auger, heavy clay, will using, with auger, anyone ever, anyone ever used, could have, ever used
Hey all, I'm new here. My home was built in 1985. I have an ITE load center, and all of the slots are full. I am putting a hot tub in the back yard and need to free up space for 40 amp service. I don't want to put in a sub panel as the basement is finished and I don't want to tear up the walls. Can I use the space saver breakers in place of some of the standard ones to free up a slot? If so, what should I shop for? I don't have a lot of electrical experience, but I did wire my garage for 220/60 and wired my basement. Thanks in advance!
What is the amperage of your service? Common sizes are 100A, 150A or 200A. How many slots does the breaker panel have? Can you identify a model number of the breaker panel? It's usually printed on the inside of the panel door.
If your mfgr label is intact it usually tells you if CTL (Circuit Twin Limited aka Tandem) breakers are acceptable and which slots they fit in. However some local codes (like mine) prohibit CTL breakers in certain circumstances even if allowed by the mfgr.
If I understand you correctly you asked if you could put what is called peanut breakers in a panel. There is no problem with this as it allows you to free up spaces you need in the panel. One thing to be aware of is if you have a multi-circuit homerun That has a shared neutral then both circuits must be on different phases
Ok, here's what I have: ITE EQ Load Center - couldn't find a model # 100 amp service 24 slots The following was printed on the inside of the cover: Use ITE type Q12 pole, type QT twin branch breakers and QF GFI if required. Suitable for CU/AL conductors including compact stranded. Branch circuits: 48 max. There's actually a space saver already in there that I never noticed before! So basically - if I can use these things - I need to free up space for a 2 pole, 40a breaker, correct? I already have 30, 40 and 60 amp 2 pole breakers in the panel. Is that a problem? The 60 is for the subpanel in the garage. Thanks again, folks!
Originally Posted by scubakirk1 If I understand you correctly you asked if you could put what is called peanut breakers in a panel. There is no problem with this as it allows you to free up spaces you need in the panel. One thing to be aware of is if you have a multi-circuit homerun That has a shared neutral then both circuits must be on different phases Please excuse my ignorance, but I don't know what that last bit means. Can you dumb it down for me? Thanks!
A multiwire circuit simply has two hots, but share the same neutral. Each hot must come from opposite supply legs, and may also have to both open with the one throw.
Originally Posted by Raven Lunatic Please excuse my ignorance, but I don't know what that last bit means. Can you dumb it down for me? Thanks! I never heard the peanut breaker term before, but with typical residential wiring you can do multiwire, where two hots on opposite poles (240 V between the hots) share a single neutral conductor. If you have any multiwire circuits, you must ensure that the hots are on opposite poles (Usually A or B on the bus in the load center). So for example if you took out two breakers that were on a multiwire, you could not just land those hots on the separate connection screws of a single tandem breaker module. Also CTL on breakers panels means there are only certain spaces where you can locate the tandem breakers. So you can't just put tandems where ever you want. Sometimes you can only use them in the bottom 6 or 8 slots on the load center. In other words between CTL and multiwire requirements, you may have a domino effect as you try to move stuff around. I've done it in planning .... and then ended up just replacing the whole load center due to code requirements!
Yes you are free to use type QT (Siemens/ITE twin breakers) as long as you limit total circuits to 42 if you are in the USA. You can go up to the manufacturer rating of 48 if you are in Canada. What scuba was trying to say is that a twin breaker (2x 120V) is not the same as a double-pole breaker (240V), so you can't use it for a 240V circuit or for a shared-neutral multiwire circuit. What you'll probably have to do is to free up some space for the double-pole subpanel breaker by replacing some of the existing single-pole breakers with twins. There is also a Siemens/ITE quad breaker which can supply 240V circuits, but you need to be careful to get the model with common internal trip on the 240V portion so it can be tricky to get the proper part if you want to go with the quad breaker option.
Thanks everyone, I really appreciate the help. Now my only question is - for 40 amp service, what type of cable should I use?
The spa changes many of the typically subpanel rules. Before we proceed, we need a little more information regarding the electrical requirements of the spa. Does the spa require 40A 120/240V (most tubs) or straight 240V? Do you have an installation manual or electrical spec sheet? Where will the GFCI protection be? Will this be a subpanel or just an outdoor disconnect? I will give you some general answers which can be narrowed down with the above info from you. A 40A spa would be installed with #8/3g NM-B Romex cable for the indoor portion of the wiring. Once the wire exits the house into the subpanel or disconnect box, you need to transition to PVC conduit with #8 copper THWN wire in the colors black, red, white and #10 in green. The conduit would be 24 deep for underground portions, and may switch over to liquidtight flexible conduit for the final 6' connection to the spa.
Originally Posted by scubakirk1 If I understand you correctly you asked if you could put what is called peanut breakers in a panel. There is no problem with this as it allows you to free up spaces you need in the panel. There are rules about whether the tandems can be used in the panel. The panel must be listed for their use. There is still a Code limit on the number of breakers in a panel. Maximum circuits cannot be exceeded even if the breakers physically fit.
Originally Posted by ibpooks The spa changes many of the typically subpanel rules. Before we proceed, we need a little more information regarding the electrical requirements of the spa. Does the spa require 40A 120/240V (most tubs) or straight 240V? Do you have an installation manual or electrical spec sheet? Where will the GFCI protection be? Will this be a subpanel or just an outdoor disconnect? I will give you some general answers which can be narrowed down with the above info from you. A 40A spa would be installed with #8/3g NM-B Romex cable for the indoor portion of the wiring. Once the wire exits the house into the subpanel or disconnect box, you need to transition to PVC conduit with #8 copper THWN wire in the colors black, red, white and #10 in green. The conduit would be 24 deep for underground portions, and may switch over to liquidtight flexible conduit for the final 6' connection to the spa. Here's what I found on a label inside the tub enclosure: 40 amp service 230 volts 1 phase the GFI will be about 10 feet away from the tub, directly in sight, on the wall of the house. It will be a disconnect. I have the trench dug for the conduit, and will be able to plumb it directly into the panel inside the enclosure with conduit. Does this help? Thanks again!
You will still need to provide whether the unit is straight 240 with only 2 wires and a ground or 2 hots, 1 neutral and a ground. Also has someone performed a demand load calculation to see if your existing service can handle the increased load? I would hate to see this get installed and keep tripping your main breaker. The wires from the disconnect to the unit would be individual conductors in the proper colors rated THWN. The ground wire MUST be insulated. Other methods like non-metallic cable can be run in the interior portion of the run. PS, would that be the Baltimore Ravens?
PS, would that be the Baltimore Ravens? Lol, no, but that would be a good name for a fan I guess. I'm a Canadian football kinda guy. Edmonton Eskimos. You will still need to provide whether the unit is straight 240 with only 2 wires and a ground or 2 hots, 1 neutral and a ground. I'm not sure go about finding this... maybe written on the panel inside the tub enclosure? Also has someone performed a demand load calculation to see if your existing service can handle the increased load? I would hate to see this get installed and keep tripping your main breaker. I would hate that too, lol. As near as I can tell - being a diyer - the panel should be ok. Here's what I found on the inside of the panel cover: Use ITE type Q12 pole, type QT twin branch breakers and QF GFI if required. Suitable for CU/AL conductors including compact stranded. Branch circuits: 48 max. ITE EQ Load Center - couldn't find a model # 100 amp service 24 slots Once again... thank you so much.
Just because you have space for breakers does not mean that the service can support all the demands placed on it. Conversely, a panel loaded with 20 20-amp breakers does not mean that you need a 400 amp service. What matters is the size of the house and what electrical appliances are in the house. A house with an electric dryer, heat pump with electric backup heat, elelctric water heater and a stove will use much more electric than the same house with gas appliances. You may want to google the tubs part number to see if you can come up with a wiring diagram.
you will run an 8-3 to the hot tub off of the 40a breaker, keep in mind that somewhere on the cover of your panel there should be a diagram of the internal busbar, where you can put the tandem breakers are designated by broken lines on that diagram. Typically they are near the bottom of the panel and since your have a 24 space 48 circuit max im almost sure thats the case. below is an image of an example of how you would set it up granted its not near the bottom of the panel like i said but you should get the point and keep that in mind http://photos-a.ak.facebook.com/phot...79424_9425.jpg
Arg, I feel like a dumbass. I'm getting less and less confident that I can do this without burning my house down or cooking myself in the hot tub. Thanks everyone for trying to educate me, I really appreciate it. However - I've decided to hire an electrician. Water + electricity = if not done correctly. I'm thinking that the 500 bucks I would save by doing it myself is not worth the potential danger. Thanks again, everyone! David.
Tags: load, center, full, breakers panel, Originally Posted, allows free, allows free spaces, allows free spaces need, allows free spaces need panel, asked could
Hello all, I had a white haze on my concrete after sealing it, so per this thread Sealant turning white on stamped/decorative walk I am going to try to strip it with xylene and then re-apply. Does anyone know how long I should let the xylene sit before re-applying the sealant? Thanks! -Joe
Welcome to the forums. Until it is completely and thoroughly dry - figure at least 24 hours (this was what I gleaned from the linked thread).
Thanks Mitch. I saw that, but figured it was referring to water. I didn't plan to wash the floor again after applying the xylene. Also, that thread refers to spraying xylene, whereas I've only seen it come in regular containers that you pour rather than spray out of. Any thoughts on where I can get an aerosol can of this stuff? That would save me a ton of time as compared to wiping it over 1,200 square feet with a rag or brush.
I doubt you'll find it in an aerosol can. When sprayed it's done thru a spray gun.
i have tried to review some threads here. i have kitchenaid KGYE67OBWH2 - 9 years old. this thing has been great but today the heat did not fire up. problem is not blocked vent, etc... does anyone know if the unit has an internal fuse? i do not have a manual with a detailed internal diagram (not sure why - must have lost it). can someone provide a link where i can research this model? please feel free to comment............
Hello and Welcome Habs11 First item to check, imo, is the hot surface (HSI) glow bar or coil. If it does not glow or glows a weak orange color, replacing it usually resolves the problem. There could be other causes for the condition but the HSI is one of the first items to check and best palces to begin a diagnostic check. Be sure all the control panel settings are correctly set first. This sticky note contains plenty of other possible causes and solutions: Gas Dryer Help Information Link: http://forum.doityourself.com/showth...hreadid=159481 Check the manufacturers web site for additional info which they may provide. http://www.kitchenaid.com Below are sponsor help web sites to help also. Advertisers Sponsors Web Sites: Appliance Parts, Pictures Help: http://www.PartSelect.com Appliances Parts Help: http://www.pcappliancerepair.com Kitchen Appliance Parts: http://www.parts-depot.online.com
thanks sharp - www.partselect.com has diagrams but i can not get them to print well. basically i want to try to fix myself and need to be pointed to the potential problem. given the age (9yrs) i am assuming not worth paying for it to be fixed. i'll post back if i solve my problem.
Hi: Habs To determine the cause, check that HSI. Chances are it is not glowing. If not, replace it as the first means to fix the dryer. While you are at it and if you determine there is a need, likely at 9 yrs, the glider/slider pads also need replacing. That dryer may also have a rear bearing and or may have rollers either back and or in front in place of glider/slider pads. May also need a new belt. The extent to which you determine you are willing to go to fix the machine, able to fix it and costs involved for parts is cost effective. So long as you can DIY the machine. Great DIY project also... Good Luck
thanks again - i was able to save the diagrams from the one site and will print later today - i'll try somehting tonight. wife already excited about anew dryer so i'm digging into this to see what i can do..... worse case i screw it up, donate to someone and get a new dryer.... best case is i fix myself within a couple days for not too much money. i like to try myself as i have never done electronic repair on an appliance..... note to self: UNPLUG!!!!!!
Habs If wiring diagrams will help, there should be one inside the back top panel. Unless the dryer was not new when you purchased it. In that case likely removed by prior owner or repair person or...???? Personally, I do not often advise a member to read them. Often times too confusing to understand etc. Helps some, whom have experience with such but not in all cases. Agree. Attempt the repairs yourself. Great learning project. Just be sure to test for gas leaks on any fitting in the gas supply to the appliance and inside the appliance should you need to disconnect any gas line(s) or fittings. And YES!... Unplug machine first.... First time shocking experience creates a major deterrent factor for all future diy projects involving any projects where electric is used, etc.
sharp, hopefully you can give me a little more detail i looked at the internal fuse but have no idea what to look for - i am thinking if it was blown it would look irregular somehow - basically it look like solid black plastic. looked at the coils (coil valve) part numbers PS383994 and PS334310 on my kitchenaid. are these what you mean by HSI? if so, i let her run 5 minutes and one stayed cool while the other got slightly warm. here is a link to these coil parts (part numbers 13, 14) http://www.partselect.com/ModelFrame...e=DryerMark=0 so, am i looking at the right thing? if not what exactly should be orange color? side note: lets assume the gnightor is bad, what if i run for 5 minutes with the front and back panels off and then after 5 minutes it ignights - any chance of an explosion? thanks do much for your help - i called some local places and they all do not offer advice on the phone and charge $50 just to stop over.
Hi: Habs The Hot Surface Ignitor is part number 4 in that picture. ps 334180 http://www.partselect.com/ModelFrame...e=DryerMark=0 Numbers 13 14 are the solenoid coils. PS383994 Coil, 60 Hz. (2 Terminal) (Main) (COIL-VALVE) PS334310 Coil, 60 Hz. (Split) (3 Terminal) (Pilot Position) (COIL-VALVE) Thermal Fuse: http://www.partselect.com/xq/aspx/In...PartDetail.htm Thermostat Pic Not Available: http://www.partselect.com/xq/aspx/In...PartDetail.htm Removing back panel will not cause harm or problems nor explosions. If there is a front access panel open it. Note on the gas valve, see pic, http://www.partselect.com/xq/aspx/In...PartDetail.htm there is a brass elbow existing out of the gas valve. On that elbow is a tiny lever to shut off the gas. Turn it off. Than unscrew that nut at the base of the gas valve. It's a coupling nut. It turns clock wise to unscrew it. Not clockwise like other nuts. Clockwise. You'll have to hold the inside nut (closest to the valve) while turning clockwise that nut. The nut remains on the valve and only the pipe end comes out. Entire gas valve must be removed to get to the hot surface glow bar. (HSI) HSI part number is 334180 in the first picture. Of course the wires to the solenoids also have to be removed first. No real problem there. They are terminal ends which simply pull out of the solenoids. And cannot be installed onto the wrong coils since they each hace differnet terminal ends. Makes that aspect of the repair easy... That black item you referred to is the thermostat. Web Site there does not have a oic of it. Not to worry. Not the cause of the problem anyway. Hope this helps and thanks for finding the pics on the web site. Glad to help those whom also are willing to help themselves... Makes all our efforts easier too. Good Luck.
ok we have it - the HSI as you indicated does not glow at all. since it does not glow at all you think this is the part i need (only part nuber 4 - 334180)? that is the only part to get it working... excluding your suggestions for new rollers, belts, etc.
Hi: Habs Yes. Part # 4 (HSI) If the ignitor bar (HSI) does not glow and all the control selections are set correctly, (not in air fluff or no heat cycles) and the ignitor fails to glow, replace it, as a first attempt to correct the problem. If you are handy with volt meters, you can test the wire terminal end for electrical current. The end that the glow ignitor plugs into. Connect the volt meter and turn the dryer on. When the dryer starts, shortly there after the meter should record current. Amount about 120 volts but not of any real concern for the amount. Just so current is there and recording. Doing that proves the ignitor is defective. Replace the ignitor. Just be very careful installing the new ignitor. They are fragile parts and break easily. Also a non returnable item or refundable part. Once purchased, they are yours, whether they work or not or fix the problem or not. But cost effective to replace, since they ware out anyway. Once the ignitor is installed and the gas valve reinstalled, test the machine. Very likely the dryer will work as it use to. The other parts (Belts/glider pads etc) can be replaced later after the dryer is working but before the total job is considered completed, if more parts are in need of being replaced.
sharp - it is late and the boards crashed so i am typing for a second time i took entire burner assembly to a parts store and they said it was good - i bought a thermal fuse in case this was the problem. turns out my fuse is good as well i purchased a multimeter and checked all the burner assembly terminals as well as the fuse - i ckeched ohms to see if there was a circut - i did not measure actual voltage. for kicks i put the multimeter on the Radiant Sensor (part number 344761 of the bulkhead section) - there was not a complete circut... could this be the problem??????? if not the sensor - any other suggestions?
Sharp, thank you for your help. The problem was a bad radiant sensor, a $25 dollar part.
Rototiller ran great then tried to continue work after about an hour and the rototiller would run for a couple minutes of tilling and would just cut out. It will start back up and run while not under load but will only go for about a minute under load. The motor starts surging then cuts out. If someone can tell me fix this it would be fantastic.
I am going to say you need to clean the carburetor. Post model numbers, etc. for engine and tiller for more specific guidance.
Originally Posted by Airman I am going to say you need to clean the carburetor. Post model numbers, etc. for engine and tiller for more specific guidance. Model# 917.291481 24 5hp front tine. I cleaned the carb and is still doing the same. It runs for about a minute or two then seems like it is starving for fuel. I checked the fule tank and fuel seems to be flowing well. I can not find a fuel filter so I am not sure what could be the problem.
You originally mentioned “surging” and that had me focus on the carburetor. The problem may not be with the carburetor but I will not rule it out. Check the tightness of the fasteners that secure the carburetor. First, install a new spark plug, Champion RC12YC or equivalent, and see if it runs OK. If the spark plug does not correct the problem, connect an inline spark tester between the spark plug wire and the spark plug. Operate the tiller. Immediately when the engine begins to fail observe the inline tester and see if it shows the engine firing. Then immediately after the engine quits attempt to start the engine while observing the inline tester to see if it shows the engine firing. If the engine is not firing you will need to replace the ignition coil. An inexpensive inline spark tester should be available at your local auto parts store. If you continue to have ignition when the engine shuts down it is time to thoroughly clean the carburetor. View the links below on carburetor cleaning. To correctly clean the carburetor you will need to remove the welch plug and install a new welch plug after cleaning. Post back if you need assistance with the welch plug or anything else. If the carburetor is not heavily soiled, you can use an inexpensive aerosol carburetor cleaner in place of soaking the carburetor. A welch plug is a disc of metal used to cover a machined hole where fuel passages are located. To clean the fuel passages the welch plug must be removed. The Welch plug is Key No. 127 Part No. 691739 in the document link below: http://www.managemyhome.com/mmh/lis_...M/L0311230.pdf Carburetor cleaning/rebuild: What are the procedures to follow when overhauling the carburetor?
try running the gas cap loose. you may have a blocked vent. Also try a new spark plug.
I will try all and post my results, thank you for replying so quick
I have rebuilt the carb, new spark plug, filter, fuel, losened gas cap, checked spark while running and when dying. Still having same issue. I did fill the fuel tank to almost overflowing and it seemed to sun perfect for about 10 mins. Then went back to same, I kept trying to keep it full to get same result but it kept going back to same quicker and quicker. I am stumped.
I pulled apart the carb one more time and blew out the 90 where the fuel enters the carb and emptied the tank and blew that out. Put it back together and it seems to be running fine. Thanks for all your help airman and indypower!!! Tags: rototiller, running, spark plug, clean carburetor, engine firing, welch plug, about minute, back same, carburetor Post, carburetor Post model, carburetor Post model numbers, carburetor Post model numbers engine, carburetor will
Hello: I have a vegatable garden 100 feet or so from my home, and there is no electricity available. For the past few years, I have been fighting a losing battle with Raccoons, Groundhogs, Deer, etc. getting the fruits of my labor before I do. I am contemplating putting up wooden poles around the perimeter of the garden, and then attaching a bare copper wire about 6 inches up and possibly 3 feet up that would be attached to the wooden poles, again, circling the perimeter. Could I hook up that wire to one terminal of a battery, and have the other terminal of the battery connected to the earth via a ground rod? I don't want to hurt the animals, I just want them to get a small shock so they become wary of going near the garden. Any ideas, or suggestions on where to get directions for doing this? Should I use a car battery, or would a 9 volt or something similar deliver enough of a shock? Thanks.
Could I hook up that wire to one terminal of a battery, and have the other terminal of the battery connected to the earth via a ground rod? No. You don't get a shock from a 12V battery. They do make battery operated fence chargers. You can even add a solar charger. You need AC or at least pulsating DC. Above only applies to low voltage DC voltage. Higher voltages are dangerous.
Ray, please explain you don't get a shock from a 12 volt battery. If I went to my car, and touched both terminals, I would not get a shock? Obviously, I have never tried that!!! However, when hooking up jumper cables, there is a spark when it makes connection. Why would I not get a shock, since there is obviously current flowing. To be clear, I am assuming that any animal is connected to the damp earth (ie. grounded), so I would assume that, when touching a hot wire, current would flow through them and give tehm a shock. Thanks for any clarity you can provide.
If I went to my car, and touched both terminals, I would not get a shock? All I can say is when I have intentional touched the poles of a 12v car battery when someone doubted me I never got a shock. Maybe it is just me since a lot of people seem to believe you can get a shock. I should add that you will get a shock from higher voltage DC sources and that can be more dangerous then AC because the power is constant.
Use a battery powered fence charger. Be sure to insulate the wire from the posts. Electric fence wire will be cheaper than copper. The charger will pulsate the current on and off, which will make the battery last longer. Keep the grass or weeds away from the wire; if you don't, the vegetation will short out the current and render the fence useless. Good luck with your project.
The 12 dc, or 120 v ac must be amplified to nearly 8000 volts (low amperage), by using a fence charger. It pulsates so as not to send a constant charge. Pulsating allows you or an animal to let go between hits. You will let go, believe me. As for deer, forget the electric charger. Remember they can clear 4 and 5 foot fences with no problem just lunging forward. Check with your local county extension service for deer fences. Most I have seen are angular away from the garden and nearly 10' in height. To keep rabbits and other ground animals away, plant marigolds around the perimeter. They can't stand the smell. No, you don't get a shock from a 12v car battery, although there is current flowing.
An electrical solution requires a whole lot more than a car battery, both in dollars and time. A 12-volt car battery has the potential to kill you if you grab its terminals, but it depends on how much current will pass through your hands and across your heart. That, in turn, depends on the conductivity of your skin. Dry hands have higher resistance, which means less current. Wet, sweaty, or oil-covered hands lower that resistance, and that's where it can be dangerous. The current (as little as 100 milliamps) carves a path across your chest that can stop your heart. If you could get a raccoon to dip his paws in oil and then grab the fence, you'd have something. We've had very good luck keeping critters away from the vegetables by sprinkling cayenne pepper and other nasty (to critters) spices around the perimeter. Edit: Chandler, we think alike. Marigolds eh?
When you shuffle across a carpet and touch something and see/feel that shock, it is about 10,000 to 20,000 volts. It doesn't kill us because it is almost all voltage with no current. The above explanations are correct that you would need an actual device designed for fences and animals. But Chandler must have the same deer as we have, because they will get over just about everything. The people who really want their garden for themselves go 8' minimum with their fences. A garden just tastes so good the animals won't quit until they are in. 12' - 4 x 4s sunk 4' into the ground every 6' to 8' apart with 4' wire fencing attached in two rows will give you back your garden. Add diagonal braces to each direction on the corners and fashion a door to get in. Bud
You know, Bud, I live in the Chattahoochee National Forest, have 53 blueberry bushes, 5 grape arbors, countless fruit trees and in 11 years have never had a deer in the property!! It could be because we have dogs, but never seen a deer print. Now, bear, 'nother story.
Don't jinx yourself Larry I bought my place in 1991 and up until 5 or so yrs ago, I never saw a deer on my property. Saw plenty of them on surrounding roads, just never at my place. Twice I've seen deer in my front yard and about 50' from my dog. While he barks every time something walks along the animal trail 50' down hill from his house, neither the dog or deer seemed to care about the other's presence. I don't know if the deer population has increased locally but after 15yrs of cultivating my slate rock garden - it's starting to resemble dirt. I can now get corn to grow, just can't harvest any Whenever the corn looks to be a few days away from picking, the next morning the deer have come and helped their selves. We got bear too, but they just pass thru, never have bothered anything ...... well except for maybe my wife and grandson - don't know why they're such chickens. btw - I'd also recommend a battery/solar fence charger - the small ones aren't all that expensive.
Lucky lucky! I'm surrounded by corn fields, yet every winter the deer find it necessary to eat most of my wife's landscaping. I don't think we've had a shrub that's lasted a year.
It is possible to get a shock from a battery if you add the use of a coil. Ever held onto a spark plug lead? Nowadays, car ignitions are electronic so the coil is built into the electronic ignition, but a few years ago, they had coils on cars. Their only purpose was to create a hi voltage from 12VDC to create a spark, but it will shock as well. A poor mans electric fence could be created from 12vdc source, a coil and a relay.
Absolutely NOT with an automotive coil. It will not pulsate and not only will burn out prematurely, but will not offer personnel protection as a commercially made chargers do with the pulsation. Try googling Gallagher or other manufacturers. They are not that expensive. The secondary voltage from a car's coil carries too much amperage and can be a health hazard.
Go with the electric fence charger. A solar one with a battery backup would likely be the best way to go. They range from $50 - $150 depending on quality without battery. Any farm supplier (like Tractor Supply) will carry everything you need to get your electric fence up and running. Just remember you will have to put the electric wire or tape close together at the bottom to keep out small critters. For what it worth, we live in farm country and we only put a 4' fence around our garden and that keeps the critters out in most cases. I think it is more of a deterrent and they just go find an easier place to snack.
Pavlov had it right. One blue arc to the nose and they learn quickly to go elsewhere.
Just an update... I went to the local Harbor Freight store last week and came upon a Solar Powered Fence charger for $60. I haven't set it up yet, but, supposedly, I can put this near the garden, facing the sun, and it will keep the electric fence charged. I bought 300 feet of wire, insulators, and a ground rod, and hope to put it to work this weekend. I will re-post to let you all know how it works out. Thanks to everyone for their help!
In case it doesn't come with a cover over the solar panel, tape some light occluding paper over the collector while you assemble this thing and discharge it before you work with it. Not pretty having it pulsate high voltage through you while you hook up your wiring and ground. Let us know how it works.
Tags: battery, powered, electric, fence, shock from, away from, terminal battery, around perimeter, fence charger, from battery
Hi All, I am trying desperately to find a two car 24x30 detached garage 'kit' to build. Everyone I talk to says Menards and Home Depot sell a kit, well I talked to them here and they say no, they don't have one... Does anyone know of any garage kits available in the midwest? Thanks for any feedback... Sean
Check at you local lumber yards. Some of the larger ones (like Meeks) sell them. You might check into just buying the material and building it yourself.
Im not a framer but it cant be that hard to find out what and how much materials you need . its only a garage besides i have seen a lot of fly by nite contractors build garages.if they can do so can u
You can buy kits at Menards, and if you choose one of their kits they will have the exact bill of materials of what you need, that you can purchase.
Try this link http://84lumber.com/Projects/Garages/index.htm The 84 plan is a pretty good basic plan that you can redesign to your hearts content. It will give you your joist spans and foundation plans and you can photo copy the drawings, customize, and take them down to the local building department to get a permit on your own, if you need one in your area. Also, any good lumber yard ought to be able to do a materials take-off for you and give you an estimate free of charge. Just go straight to a manager or if you've got to use home depot, go to the pro desk. It's not a kit in the sense that the parts are cut and tab A slips into slot B, but a garage is pretty manageble project. As long as you can manage a skill saw pretty well, you can build a garage. The only really tricky part is figuring your roof, but we can help you with that
go to easybuildings.com they have some plans
I E-mailed a company that does these kits. These are the prices I found for 3 car garages. If someone else inguires about 2 car ones, please post! In response to your inquiry, here is some basic info on our garages. 32x24-8600.00 32x28-9200.00 32x32-8900.00 32x36-9700.00 32x40-10200.00 These prices include 7% tax, and are rounded up to the nearest hundred for ease of typing. These prices do not include delivery All of our packages are 100% complete; nails, shingles, trusses, doors, windows, solid wood siding, etc....
HD has them - you go to the millwork desk and they will create with the computer and print you a BOM, then deliver. You can line-item customize things from there. Good luck.
What about using a kit like these from Northern Tool and Socket Systems: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...ctId=572R=572 http://socketsystems.com/ Note that the Northern Tool kit is only good for 10' wide and uses normal 2x4's. The SS system uses 6x6 timbers. Any other building framing kits like these for a 16'x24' garage/shop? Thanks, Al
Originally Posted by Feggui I E-mailed a company that does these kits. These are the prices I found for 3 car garages. If someone else inguires about 2 car ones, please post! In response to your inquiry, here is some basic info on our garages. 32x24-8600.00 32x28-9200.00 32x32-8900.00 32x36-9700.00 32x40-10200.00 These prices include 7% tax, and are rounded up to the nearest hundred for ease of typing. These prices do not include delivery All of our packages are 100% complete; nails, shingles, trusses, doors, windows, solid wood siding, etc.... Holy friggin cow, where is that company out of??!! Why in the world are the smaller more common sized garages so darn expensive??!! The packages around here cost me about $7/sqft but I often delete a bunch of the homecenter garbage and upgrade to better windows/siding/shingles for a total of $8 sq ft. I cant believe the menards in you area does not have these packages? Sounds very very odd IMO!!
Tags: detached, garage, kits, These prices, prices include, These prices include, 100% complete, 100% complete nails, 100% complete nails shingles, 100% complete nails shingles trusses, 32x24-8600 32x28-9200, 32x24-8600 32x28-9200 32x32-8900, 32x24-8600 32x28-9200 32x32-8900 32x36-9700, 32x24-8600 32x28-9200 32x32-8900 32x36-9700 32x40-10200
Vitamin E oil is used for treating scars, acne marks and fine lines and wrinkles, usually around the face and neck. If you find it to be too sticky, apply it at night before bed. Vitamin E is a natural antioxidant, and it helps to keep your skin healthy. It protects skin by destroying free radicals. For better overall health, it's also important to take vitamin E orally, either through your diet or by using a supplement.
Natural Sources
Natural sources of vitamin E include vegetable oils, nuts, seeds, whole grains and dark green leafy vegetables.
Production
Vitamin E oil is made from alpha-tocopherol, which is blended with an oil carrier. It can also be made from distilled vegetable oils, such as canola or corn oil.
Storage
Store vitamin E oil in cool conditions and ensure that the bottle is airtight, as oxygen can make it unstable. When stored in ideal conditions, vitamin E oil has a shelf life of about three years.
Capsules
If you're having trouble finding vitamin E oil for purchase, try purchasing vitamin E supplements in capsule form. You can break open the capsules to use the oil inside them.
Application
To apply vitamin E oil, gently massage it in your skin on your face, neck or other areas of dry or damaged skin.
Some people travel without giving much thought to their accommodations. Others think that a good hotel can greatly enhance a trip, indeed, that some hotels are worth seeing in and of themselves. Those travelers in the latter group probably look for trendy hotels that offer more than just a bed and a bathroom. Conde Nast Traveler and Tripadvisor rate some of the trendiest hotels in the country. If you're traveling to Louisville, Kentucky; Chicago, Illinois, or New York City, you should consider staying at one of these trendy hotels.
theWit
theWit is the top ranking hotel on Tripadvisors' 2010 Trendiest Hotels list. It offers guests the best of design, location and comfort in the heart of downtown Chicago. Here you'll find resort-like amenities combined with a boutique hotel's attention to detail and customer service. Stay here, and you'll be within walking distance of the Ford Center Oriental Theatre, Cadillac Palace Theatre, the Art Institute, Modern Wing, Field Museum and many other tourist destinations. Hotel amenities include a gym, yoga studio, library, spa, WiFi and an on-site restaurant. Guest rooms have flat screen televisions, luxury linens, designer toiletries and in-room safes. Many guest rooms also have views of the Chicago River. theWit starts at $290 per night.
theWit
201 N. State Street
Chicago, IL 60601
312-467-0200
http://www.thewithotel.com/
Smyth Hotel
Smyth Hotel also is featured on Tripadvisors' 2010 Trendiest Hotels list. It is located in New York City's Tribeca neighborhood, home to celebrities such as Jay Z and Beyonce, Robert DeNiro and Justin Timberlake. Designed by Yabu Pushelberg, Smyth Hotel has 100 guestrooms, each with walnut paneling, chrome accented furniture, and ostrich-embossed leather walls. The luxurious marble bathrooms feature Hans Grohe rain shower heads. Some suites have floor-to-ceiling windows and balconies with views of Manhattan. Amenities include a 24-hour gym, laptops available for use, WiFi and chauffeur car service. The on-site restaurant is Frederick Lesort's French-inspired restaurant, Plein Sud. Rooms start at $460 per night.
The 21C Museum Hotel in Louisville is the highest scoring hotel in Conde Nast Traveler's 2010 Design category. Located just a few blocks from the Ohio River, 21C is for the traveler who wants a truly unique experience. The buildings that comprise the hotel used to be tobacco and bourbon warehouses. The space has been converted to hotel rooms and museum exhibit space filled with contemporary art. Many original architectural features remain in place, such as brickwork, arches, glass transoms, hand-knotted rugs and wood floors. Rooms are minimally, yet artfully decorated. The on-site restaurant, Proof on Main, prepares Kentucky-inspired cuisine. Guests enjoy unusual amenities such as iPods preloaded with a variety of music, 42-inch HD televisions, WiFi, 500 thread count sheets, silver mint julep cups, gourmet coffee machines, and concierge services. Guests can also use the gym, steam room, sauna, and spa. Rooms start at $250 per night.
Online education is very efficient because a student does not have to reside in the area near the college; complete degree programs are now offered online. An undergraduate degree in geology is not available online because it involves lab work; however, some institutions offer geology-specialty master's degree programs such as earth science, geoscience education, geotechnics, and geographic information science online.
Emporia State University
Emporia State University offers an online graduate degree in earth science. Earth science includes the study of geology, and the classes offered cover related areas including hydrogeology and geographic information systems. Emporia State also offers a geospatial analysis credential at the master's level, for students who do not wish to attend a full master's degree program.
Emporia State University
1200 Commercial Street
Emporia, Kansas 66801
(620) 341-1200
http://www.emporia.edu/
University of Tennessee at Martin
The University of Tennessee at Martin offers an online degree in geoscience education. This program includes some unique aspects: since the course is offered online, it is taught by teachers throughout the state of Tennessee. The geoscience education program is taught by a combination of geology professors and education professors, as it is designed to prepare students to become geology teachers in Tennessee high schools.
The University of Tennessee, Martin
552 University Street
Martin, TN 38237
(731) 881-7000
http://www.utm.edu/
Northwest Missouri State University
Northwest Missouri State University offers an online masters degree in Geographic Information Science. Also known as GIS, this is a specialty taught through the geology department. GIS involves using information technology, as well as maps, property deeds, and environmental measurements, to create electronic systems that record and predict information. This is an applied degree that trains students to operate software when working at environmental consulting firms and government regulatory agencies.
Northwest Missouri State University
800 University Drive
Maryville, MO 64468
(660) 562=1212
http://www.nwmissouri.edu/
Missouri University of Science and Technology
The Missouri University of Science and Technology offers an online masters degree in Geotechnics. Geotechnics is an area of geology that involves the application of engineering. Various engineering courses that cover geology concepts are offered, such as petroleum, civil, and mining engineering, as well as advanced geology courses. This degree program is focused on extracting resources such as metals and oil from the earth.
The Dazzle Fusion works with most digital camcorders and cameras.
Pinnacle Systems designed the Dazzle Fusion as an all-in-one recording accessory for digital cameras and camcorders. The device connects to the camera or camcorder and helps store, edit and play photos and videos onto your computer or television. Occasional problems may arise related to the Dazzle Fusion's hardware or software. Troubleshoot it to resolve potential underlying problems and get back to capturing your favorite memories.
Instructions
1. Check that the Dazzle Fusion is connected to a reliable power source if none of its lights is illuminated. Connect the device directly to an electrical outlet using the included AC power cord as using an extension cable may create unreliable voltage that can make the Fusion turn on and off unexpectedly. Its power connector port is located on the back panel.
2. Verify that the Dazzle Fusion is connected to your TV or computer if no images display on the respective devices. For televisions, the Dazzle Fusion must be attached with its RCA cable. Insert each of the RCA cable's color-coordinated plugs into the device and the TV for proper image and audio streaming (e.g., the red jack should plug into the Dazzle Fusion's red port). If you're using a computer, verify that the device's USB cable is securely plugged into the bottom of the device and your computer.
3. Verify that you have installed the Dazzle Fusion's three recording applications if you are trying to edit or burn DVDs. All of its applications come included on its installation disk and require Windows 98 SE or higher, 128MB of free memory, 150MB of free hard disk space and a 500Mhz computer processor.
4. Inspect the digital media card you're using in the Dazzle Fusion if you're getting recording or reading errors or problems with insufficient storage space. The Fusion accepts Secure Digital, CompactFlash, SSFDC Smart Media and MultiMedia cards. Using any other type of memory card will create data problems.
5. Contact Pinnacle Systems' technical help desk at 650-267-5196 if you still cannot get your Dazzle Fusion to function properly. Technicians are available weekdays from 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. EST.
Replacement bathroom fixtures add a new look to old sinks.
Replacing a bathroom faucet not only improves the appearance of your sink, it also eliminates any leaks, drips or other problems you may have experienced with your old faucet. Hardware stores and home centers usually feature a wide variety of bathroom fixtures to choose from as well as the tools and materials you need to complete the task. Replacing an old bathroom faucet is a do-it-yourself project that can be accomplished in 45 minutes or less.
Instructions
1. Turn off the water supply to the bathroom faucet. Open the tap to release any water still in the pipe. Leave the tap open as you complete your work.
2. Remove the hot and cold water line fittings from the faucet using an adjustable wrench. Turn the fitting nuts counterclockwise.
3. Turn the faucet retaining nuts counterclockwise using a basin wrench to remove. Lift the old bathroom faucet up from the sink.
4. Clean any residue left from the old faucet from the sink using a plastic putty knife, tub and tile cleaner and paper towels.
5. Apply a thin ring of plumber's putty around each faucet hole in the sink.
6. Insert the new faucet into the sink holes and tighten the retaining nuts with the basin wrench. Do not overtighten the retaining nuts.
7. Connect the hot and cold water supply lines fittings to the faucet with the adjustable wrench. Tighten clockwise.
8. Restore water pressure to the new faucet and allow the water to run approximately 15 seconds to bleed air from the lines.
Tips Warnings
If you have an unusual sink in your home, check out an adjustable faucet designed to fit different sink styles.
Drive (D) is an automatic transmission mode that causes forward motion in an automobile.
An automatic transmission eliminates the manual process of shifting gears using a clutch pedal to accommodate the speeds or conditions in which you are driving. In most automatic transmission vehicles, the transmission modes are Park (P), Reverse (R), Neutral (N), Drive (D) and the low power gears that are used for pulling loads or going up extreme inclines. Automatic transmission vehicles come equipped with shift selectors that control the transmission modes of an automobile. Shift selectors can be mounted to the floor console, dashboard or steering column, or as dash-mounted pushbuttons, depending on the automobile.
Instructions
1. Enter the vehicle on the driver's side, put on your seat belt and adjust the rear view and side mirrors if needed. You should always perform these safety measures whenever you plan to put a vehicle in the Drive transmission mode.
2. Press firmly on the brake pedal with your right foot and insert the key into the ignition.
3. Engage the starter and start the engine by turning the key clockwise and then quickly releasing it when the engine starts.
4. With your foot still on the brake pedal, engage the shift selector by pulling it towards you and moving it downward to the Drive position if it is column mounted.
5. With the console or dashboard-mounted shift selector, use your right thumb to press the shift lock button on the shift selector and move it backward to the Drive position. Release the shift lock button once you have the vehicle in drive.
6. For pushbutton shift selectors, press the D or Drive button on the dashboard.
7. Release your foot off the brake pedal and slowly accelerate to set the vehicle in motion.
Tips Warnings
On console or dashboard mounted selection levers, the safety switch prevents drivers from inadvertently knocking the gear into position.
Frosting paste (also called sugar paste) is used in making exquisite cake decorations such as flowers, ribbons, delicate trims and borders. Frosting paste is made using a base of confectioners sugar and resembles a soft dough. Roll frosting into a thin paste and use it to create a smooth icing covering on a cake. Color the frosting paste, roll flat, cut and then form into flowers, leaves, letters or any kind of icing decoration.
Instructions
1. Mix four egg whites in a large mixer bowl for approximately 10 to 15 seconds or until the egg whites begin to look frothy. Reserve 1 cup of powdered sugar and set it aside. Slowly add the balance of the sugar to the egg whites while mixing at low speed.
2. Increase the mixer speed to medium (setting 3 or 4 on most mixers) and continue mixing the sugar and egg whites for two minutes. Reduce mixer speed to low and slowly sprinkle the tylose into the sugar and egg white mixture. Increase speed to highest setting and mix for 10 seconds or until the mixture thickens.
3. Sprinkle powdered sugar from the 1 cup you reserved onto a mixing board. Scrape the sugar paste from the bowl onto the mixing board. Rub the vegetable shortening on your hands and then knead the sugar paste. Add sugar from the reserves cup of powdered sugar and continue to knead the sugar paste until it reaches a soft dough consistency.
4. Refrigerate the paste in a zipper-top plastic bag for 24 hours. Allow the paste to warm to room temperature. Knead the paste with a touch of vegetable shortening before using on a cake.
Tips Warnings
Freeze left over frosting paste, which will last up to six months frozen. Add colors to the paste during the kneading process after the paste has been refrigerated for 24 hours.
The Blanco Harvest Hose and Spray combines the standard two-piece faucet set into one.
The Blanco Harvest Hose and Spray is an efficient all-in-one standard faucet with a hidden hose attached to the faucet head. Pull out the faucet head and you can point and direct the faucet water in all directions, allowing you to reach difficult to clean spots on all your dishes and silverware. Like any other piece of plumbing equipment, parts can begin to wear down and mineral buildup can cause the hose and spray to malfunction. Following several troubleshooting tips step by step should get your Blanco Harvest Hose and Spray back in working condition in short order.
Instructions
Faucet Cleaning
1. Turn off the water and inspect the area where the water sprays from. Mineral deposits of lime, calcium and rust can begin to build up over time, clogging the faucet spout.
2. Spray the faucet with mineral cleaner, and let the cleaner stand for several minutes.
3. Insert a safety pin into the holes underneath the faucet to clean out any mineral deposits. The mineral cleaner should make it easier to remove any buildup.
4. Wipe away any excess mineral deposits with a soft scouring pad (a rough scouring pad might scratch the faucet's finish).
5. Turn the water back on, and test the faucet. If the problem was caused by mineral deposits, the faucet should be fixed.
Diverter and Washer
6. Turn off the water and unscrew the faucet head from the rest of the faucet fixture if water is leaking from the connection between the faucet head and the hose.
7. Turn the faucet head upside down and remove the washer and O-ring. If these pieces look dirty or worn out, they are likely causing the leak and have to be replaced. These parts are inexpensive and can be easily found at your local hardware store.
8. Unscrew the diverter inside the faucet by turning the screw inside the faucet several times. The screw does not have to be completely removed to get the diverter out. Simply pull on the screw when you can reach it with your fingers and pull out. The diverter is responsible for switching faucet settings. If dirty or broken, a leak can result.
9. Clean the diverter with mineral cleaner and a soft scouring pad and place back into the faucet head. The diverter will have to be replaced if it is cracked or otherwise broken. Make sure all the cleaning chemicals are washed away before placing the diverter back into the faucet.
Hose Replacement
10. Shut off the water if the hose has sprung a leak.
11. Unscrew the faucet head from the top of the faucet. This will detach the hose from the top of the faucet.
12. Open the cabinets underneath your sink to expose the plumbing. Locate where the hose is attached to your home's water source.
13. Unscrew the hose and bring it with you to a hardware store to find a replacement. Make sure to find a matching size and shape to ensure the new hose will fit your faucet.
14. Screw in the new hose to the water source underneath the sink and to the faucet head. Turn on the water and test it out. Check for leaks at either end. If it's still leaking, you'll need to tighten the hose to the fixtures a little more.
Removing grease from concrete can be done using common household items.
Grease and oil on concrete can create unsightly stains. Removing the oil and grease stains from the concrete may require multiple attempts, depending on how large the affected areas are. The good news is that most grease will not penetrate the layers of the concrete and can be removed with products you may have at home or can buy from your local grocery store.
Instructions
1. Spread a layer of kitty litter, cornstarch, sawdust or baking soda over the grease stains. Use enough of your chosen material to thoroughly cover the grease stain. Allow the material to absorb the grease or oil for three hours.
2. Use a stiff nylon brush and scrub the kitty litter, cornstarch, sawdust or baking soda into the stain. Scrub the area in different directions to push the material into the stain and the concrete crevices. The will allow the material to soak up more of the grease. If the surface is large with multiple stains, such as a driveway, use a push broom with hard, rough bristles.
3. Sweep the area thoroughly and throw away the material used to absorb the grease. Prepare soapy water using 1/4 cup dish soap to 1 gallon of hot water. Scrub the stained area in the same manner as step 2. The amount of soapy water needed will vary by the size of the stain and how much of the grease remains. Rinse the area with plain water.
4. Allow the area to dry. Repeat the process until the stain is removed. Grease stains more than a year old or areas where the grease has built up over months may require multiple treatments.
Tips Warnings
If the grease stain is large or older than a year, try using a power washer after cleaning the area.
When light falls upon a flat ceiling, any irregularities become immediately obvious due to the shadows. Texture on the ceiling helps obscure imperfections, such as dents and uneven surfaces. A type of ceiling texture, known as the stippled ceiling or the stomped ceiling, has a random, rather floral pattern. You can create this effect using joint compound and a good stipple brush. Another advantage of applying ceiling texture is you will not have to paint over it.
Instructions
1. Mix joint compound with water in a bucket. Follow the manufacturer's instructions because varying products have different ratios. When the mixture is thoroughly mixed, you should have an even liquid with no lumps and the consistency of paint.
2. Pour some of the joint compound mixture into a paint tray. Dip a paint roller with a long nap in the joint compound, making sure the mixture covers the roller evenly. Apply a thin layer of the joint compound mixture to a section of the ceiling. You have to stipple the ceiling before the joint compound dries, so you have to work in sections. For easy application, apply a band as wide as the width of your roller along one part of the ceiling, apply the texture, then move on. This automatically results in uniformly-sized sections.
3. Tap the stipple brush on the section of the ceiling where you applied joint compound. The shape of the stipple brush will automatically create the stipple pattern on the ceiling. Rotate the brush slightly and stomp the brush on another part of the ceiling again. Continue until you finish the section, then apply the joint compound to another section of the ceiling.
Cooking pork ribs can be quicker and easier than you think.
Pork ribs make a great family meal or celebratory dinner. Since there are many different ways to cook pork ribs, you can decide how much effort you want to put in. Pork ribs are made up of fatty muscle that is easy to cook, and plenty of quick and simple options exist. Regardless of the method you choose, always measure your meat with a meat thermometer to make sure your ribs have reached a temperature of 165 degrees or higher before eating.
Understanding Quick Cooking Methods
Understanding different ways to cook meat will help you choose the method that is the most efficient for you. Specific cook times will vary between different ovens. Braising the ribs is one fast option. This involves browning all sides of the meat in a saucepan on high heat, then simmering the ribs on low with a small amount of water until they are cooked through. Pan frying is another quick method. Simply put the ribs in a nonstick pan with a small amount of fat. Cook on medium high, turning the ribs occasionally, until the meat is brown on all sides. You don't need to add water, marinade or to cover the pan. Pan broiling is also fast and easy. Follow the same process as you would to pan fry ribs, without adding fat.
Baking Pork Ribs
Another quick way to cook ribs is by submerging them in a sauce and baking. For quick marinated ribs, mix 1/2 cup of barbecue sauce with 1/2 cup of orange juice. Place 2 lbs. of ribs in a large casserole dish and add the marinade until the ribs are almost submerged. Preheat the oven to 250 degrees, cover the pan with tinfoil and bake for three hours.
Dry Cooking Pork Ribs
Grilling, which incorporates dry heat, is one of the fastest ways to cook pork ribs. Since grilling can dry meat out, you'll want to marinate your ribs first. Mix 1/2 cup olive oil with 3 tbsp. of brown sugar, 1/4 cup vinegar, 1/4 cup diced scallions, 1 tbsp. cayenne pepper and 1 tbsp. chili powder. Use a sharp knife to pole small holes in 2 lbs. of pork ribs for faster cooking, and soak the meat in the marinade overnight. If you're in a hurry, you can soak the meat for two hours. Cook the ribs on a charcoal grill, following the instructions of your specific equipment. After the ribs have been grilling for 30 minutes, measure their temperature with a meat thermometer. The ribs are done when they reach 165 degrees, which should take about an hour. Remove the meat from the grill and let it cool for 20 minutes before eating.
Boiling Pork Ribs
Boiling is an especially fast way to prepare pork ribs. Start with 2 1/2 lbs. of ribs. Place them in a large pot and cover them with water. In a separate dish, mix 1 tbsp. garlic powder, 2 tbsp. black pepper, 2 tbsp. salt and 1 cup barbecue sauce. Add this marinade to the pot containing the ribs. Boil the mixture on your stove on high until the meat is tender. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Put the ribs in a baking dish large enough for each piece of meat to touch the bottom, so that it cooks quickly and thoroughly. Add the barbecue sauce, cover the dish with aluminum foil, and bake for about an hour.
Some people have an allergic reaction when exposed to sunlight.
Sun allergies are a real medical problem, but fortunately they are rare and the symptoms usually fade within 24 hours. More common than true sun allergies are sun sensitivities that can mimic some of the same symptoms.
Sun Allergies
Some people are allergic to sunlight. When exposed to the sun, these people will develop a red, itchy rash, often on the back of their hands, arms, lower legs and neck.
Exposure Time
In some allergic people, a reaction can be triggered by just a few minutes of exposure to sunlight.
Solar Urticaria
People with a sever sun allergy may develop hives (called Solar urticaria) or even small blisters instead of a rash. For reasons that are unknown, young women are most likely to develop Solar urticaria.
Immune Response
This sun allergy occurs because the immune system sees skin cells that have been affected by sunlight as foreign invaders and attacks them. Sun allergies appear to be inherited.
Photosensitivity
Some people may develop a photosensitivity, which can be caused by certain medications or chemicals, and will develop a rash when exposed to sun, but they do not have a true allergy.
We just signed an agreement to have 11 windows replaced for about $7,000, and I am trying to figure out if we should cancel while we can. The product is the Simington 6500 series, which I understand is very well rated. Ten of the Windows measure 36 x 52 and 1 is 25 x 55. Existing metal framed windows need to be removed from brick clad openings. We would really appreciate some advice. Thank you, Bill Sammon bsammon@optonline.net
Yes, you're being taken to the cleaners. The windows themself would run about $200-$225 apiece or so IF you got every bell and whistle option to go with it ( LowE glass, colonial grid, full screens, etc ) The installation costs will run, I'll say $75/window ( probably less, but I haven't seen your old ones, so I'll guess a little higher than I'd do it for) That puts whoever laid this deal on you at maybe $3300 in out of pocket costs.....throw in a couple hundred for overhead IF they have an office/run ads, and there is STILL $3500 worth of profit in there.....a tidy sum for a sales pitch. Did the guy look a lot like Danny Devito, drive a flashy car and wear a lot of gold pinky rings ?
The blanket statement you are getting taken to the cleaners is IMHO inaccurate...prices vary from region to region, I bet a 2000sf house in TN doesn't cost $330,000 as it does where I live, material, labor etc are variable. Get several quotes, compare the windows and make a choice, that's what I did and I am getting Simonton 6500's for the about the same price as a no name brand from some local company, and cheaper than Pella's...
LOTS of variables go into a house....it's a MUCH bigger project...the cost of land alone can vary a lot, even here...you can pay $2,000 for an acre or $50,000 for a 1/2 acre in a ritz subdivision. I'll bet I could go anywhere in the country and buy Simonton windows ( just the window outright) for VERY little difference in price. The only materials needed are aluminum trim coil, some caulk, and some fiberglass insulation. Are you going to tell me the cost of them is THAT much higher in different pars to fhe country.....I don't think so...... So that leaves labor to install......it's $50/window pretty standard here.....I bumped that 50% in the case above..... Overhead for the company.........shouldn't run over 10-15% of the total job cost or you're dang inefficient I don't care where you live.... and of course, profit.....which in this case I still think is well over 100%......leaving plenty of room to negotiate. Bottom line.....he is paying too much. I know how these tinmen work.....seen it done for many years......they shoot for the moon and then start backing off if you won't buy it.....Watched one guy call his manager and appear to be talking to him negotiating price...then came back to the customer with a lower price. When he left, customer hit redial on the phone and got the time and temp number of the local bank .........they've got more tricks than Carter has liver pills
okay, maybe I picked a bad example...I understand your point, but I brought in 4 different companies and all were around the same neighborhood around 500/window (+/- 40), most of them no argon, no low e...and not too close to your estimate...I went with the Simonton 6500 because the rep and the price and everything that this series came with...The price was not as high as 636/window, but much higher than your estimate of 350...I thought I did everthing right on this one, but if your estimates are right I paid about 50% too much.
It may have been the best you could get there.....one variable I didn't mention is competition....if you don't have much, or they all know what the other guy is selling for, they'll naturally keep the price higher. Here, there are 25 places you can get windows and a lot of little guys like me installing them to boot. I've told people here before, but it bears mentioning again: The BEST way to get replacement vinyl windows is go find an outlet that sells mainly siding and windows to contractors....a specialty supply place is far better than the run of the mill lumberyard if you can find one. Price the windows....you can get fairly close on size by just asking them meaure....close enough for pricing.... Then ask for their recommendation of a small contractor like me to do the install. Pay him to come measure and pay him for the install + plus whatever materials he uses......I charge $50/window IF you buy the window. I furnish the trim coil, caulk, and insulation in that 50. You'll average about $200-225 window doing it this way. Even if labor is twice what it is here, you're STILL way ahead of what most window outfits stick ya for.
Tags: window, higher than, much higher, Simonton 6500, taken cleaners, trim coil, where live, your estimate
When my water heater was being replaced, the installer offered to install a thermal expansion tank for $129. He said it would eliminate the noisy pipes that we have due to high water pressure. I declined because: 1. Our pipes have never made any noise. 2. In 20 years, the house has never had a thermal expansion tank . 3. We have a pressure reducing valve on the main water line coming into the house. Did I make the right decision here?
If you bought the Ruud (Rheem) heater and have TP valve leaking issue, dont EVEN call if you opted to not get the thermal expansion tank. :-P Not to say it will happen... Well my old heater never went out in my attic. Well my old heater never leaked from the TP valve. Well my old heater always gave me plenty of hot water. Well my old heater lasted 20 years. ... but this isnt your old heater.
Hello XS6DFG0. Did you make the right decision? Answer. Yes. If the water heater is not connected to a boiler, it is free standing, has a Pressure/Temperature releif valve, the main inlet water line to the entire house has a water pressure control valve and there isn't any exisiting/current problems, no expansion tank should be needed. In my opinion and based upon my vast number of years of experiences as an appliance serivce tech, no expansion tank should be needed for a non interconnected free standing gas water heater. Check back on your question several more times. Other members and the plumbing professionals posting replies in this forum topic may offer you additional advice. Web Site Host, Gas Appliances Topic Moderator Multiple Forums Moderator. Energy Conservation Consultant Natural Gas Appliance Service and Diagnostics Technician. Personal Driving Safety Reminder: Buckle Up Drive Safely. The Life You Save, May Be Your Own.
Thanks for the replies. BTW, I went with the Bradford White instead of the Ruud.
My understanding that an expansion tank is needed if a pressure reducing valve or back flow or check valve is located between the supply and hot water heater. Without one there is nothing to take up the water expansion--usually the pressure relief valve takes over...
I guess if the TP valve ever vents, I'll add an expansion tank. Am I correct in assuming that larger tanks are capable of producing more pressure? We only have a 40 gallon tank.
Since you stated in your original post that you have a PRV on your incoming water line the answer is YES, you do need an expansion tank. Failure to install one could void the warranty on the new heater. The volume (size) of the water heater has no bearing on how much pressure it is capable of producing. Point in fact, the heater cannot produce ANY pressure, it is the fact that you are adding heat to a closed system (the heater and the attached piping) that causes the pressure to rise.
I agree with Furd. You can buy a cheap pressure gauge and screw it onto the water heater drain, open the drain, and watch what happens after someone takes a shower.
Originally Posted by steve_gro I agree with Furd. You can buy a cheap pressure gauge and screw it onto the water heater drain, open the drain, and watch what happens after someone takes a shower. If I do this, how much pressure is too much?
My local codes require a PRV at 80 PSI The relief valve on the water heater is probably set at 150 PSI. I would start thinking about an expansion tank based on the pressure increase after someone takes a shower, or if the pressure approached 100 PSI. That is, if the water heater heats a tank of water it only increased a few PSI, you could leave it, but I suspect that it will creep up a little more than that. Check the water heaters mfg's website, or call them to see what they have to say, esp regarding the warrantee. If I install a water heater and there's a PRV, I normally recommend an expansion tank; they aren't expensive, or much trouble to install.
I have a PRV set 80psi and it is leaking should I install a expansion tank.
Arpan...do you mean a pressure regulating valve (PRV) or a WH pressure relief valve (commonly called a TP valve). If I'm right, 80 psi is pretty high for a PRV, 60 is more common as I understand. Anyway, if your PRV is leaking, it may need rebuilding or replacement.
most if not all your manufacturers require the expansion control of some sort, and since it is unpredictable , expansion tanks are the best options. most local and plumbing codes do require a means of expansion control.....look up or call your local plumbing codes enforcement. in our area it is done on all water heaters esp. gas
Tags: thermal, expansion, tank, water heater, expansion tank, Well heater, after someone, after someone takes, after someone takes shower, expansion tank
I have 2 Rheem heat pumps in my home that had regular mercury type thermostats. I decided to install a Honeywell RTH6350 programmable tstat on both units. I followed the directions and wiring digrams for both. One unit worked perfectly after the installtion but the other had issues. When heat was called for, it seemed like very little heat was coming out of the register and little or no air flow. I took the cover off the blower unit and put the fan on ON and the fan was working. I put the original tstat back on and things worked perfectly again. The model number of the one having the issues is Rheem RHQA-0810B. The wiring I had for the Honeywell hookup was as follows: red - R with jumper to RC Yellow -Y Orange - O/B Green - G White - Aux with jumper to E Blue - Not connected per instructions Black (X) - Not connected per instructions. As far as the post-installation setup, I believe my options-selected were as follows: 1-5 2-0 (since O was connected to O/B as instructed) 6-5 8-9 13-1 14-0 I tried calling the Honeywell help line and they were no help. Any ideas on what I can try to resolve this? Thanks.
What was blue tied to? Is the outdoor unit Rheem/Ruud as well? If so, set up#2 needs to be 1. 6 and 8, I'd suggest 3 for better comfort.
The outdoor unit is Rheem. The blue was to blue on the original tstat and it says not to use that wire on the RTH6350 setup. On function 2 the manual stated that if you connected an O to the O/B terminal to use option 0 for that function. On 6 8, it says that that a 3 is for hot water or HE gas furnace. Will those work with the heat pump correctly?
what color wires were on what terminals on the old stat. Lets start there.
Red - R Yellow -Y Orange - O Blue - B Green - G White - W2 black - X Jumper from W2 to E Thanks.
You don't use the orange on rheem, not sure why they used the o since they use B. You want the blue on the o/b.
Are you saying that if from the wire setup in the first post I leave everything the same but replace the orange wire on the O/B terminal on the RTH6350 and change the function 2 setting to 1 it should work correctly? And I should change the functions 6 8 to 3 as well as mentioned earlier? Thanks again.
Yes, move the blue wire in place of the orange, and make those changes.
Thanks for the info. I'll make those changes and let you know how it works out.
it is possible that this stat will not work because you have o and b hooked up on your old stat and may need a stat with separate o and b terminals.
Give is the make and model of your inside unit and outside. Also, is this zoned?
The inside unit is an RHQA-0810B. I'll get the outside model number next time I'm home and post it. Thanks.
Okay - The inside model is RHQA-0810B and the outside unit is RPMA-024JAZ. Let me know if you need any further information - thanks.
I'm not seeing anything special with this.. So, not sure why O/Orange was used. Did you look at the air handler and trace the orange wire to see where it went to?
At the air handler the orange is connected to a purple wire.
Not sure why they tie it to this purple wire, in the diagram it shows goes to an optional Defrost Heat Sensor. It looks like it should be tied to the HP's defrost wire. So, when the unit goes into defrost, the purple wire powers up the heat strips.
But that wouldn't explain the issues I had with the new tstat not working correctly, would it?
Your old stat had B hooked up so you had the HP working, and Made me wonder about your cooling bill! Cuz O is powered up in cooling mode.
So what would be the your suggested configuration for the wires? Leaving the blue not connected like before and leaving everything else as posted previously for the new TSTAT? If so, since it didn't seem to work that way previously, do you think there might me an issue the the new tstat? Like a said earlier, I hooked up 2 of the new honeywell tstats on the same day and the other is working fine. The only difference in in the wiring is that the one that is working didn't have an orange wire connected.
what did you do with the blue wire on the other stat? My suggestion is to hook everything up but orange and configure the system to use b with heating
Put the Blue wire on the O/B on the stat, and tuck the orange wire into the wall. Go to the air handler, and see were the defrost wire is going to.
OK - I tracked all of the connections and here they are: Old TSAT: red-red yellow - yellow orange - orange blue - blue green - green white - W2 black - X Jumper W2 to E There are 3 sets of wires going to the air handler: #1 (4 wires) blue - blue #2 yellow - red #3 brown - black #2, air handler brown orange - air handler purple #2 (6 wires) green - air handler black black - brown #1, air handler brown red - air handler red white - air handler black blue - blue #1 yellow - white #3 #3 (2 wires) red - yellow #2 white - yellow #1 Air handler (5 wires, connections listed above) black #2 black #2 red purple brown Any suggestions or ideas? Thanks.
Old STAT: red-red 24 volt power yellow - yellow compressor orange - orange not used blue - blue reversing valve green - green fan white - W2 heat strip black - X common Jumper W2 to E There are 3 sets of wires going to the air handler: #1 (4 wires)outdoor unit blue - blue #2 yellow - red #3 brown - black #2, air handler brown orange - air handler purple It is odd that we do not suppy 24 volts to the outdoor unit, but the diagram I see agrees with this. #2 (6 wires)Stat green - air handler black black - brown #1, air handler brown red - air handler red white - air handler black blue - blue #1 yellow - white Notice that stat orange is not used #3 (2 wires)Float switch red - yellow #2 white - yellow #1 Air handler (5 wires, connections listed above) black #2 black #2 red purple brown The 2 blacks had a small colored stripe at one time.
Sorry, I missed one connection on the list that I mentioned earlier in the thread, at the air handler the orange is connected to a purple wire.
I see that the outdoor unit orange connects to air handler purple. How many orange wires are connected to air handler purple?
Sorry, only one. The outdoor unit orange to air handler purple. So as mentioned earlier, the orange should not be connected to the new TSTAT? Also, since I put the old tstat back up until I get the new one working, should the orange wire not be used with the old tstat either?
Connecting orange to your stat will risk popping a low voltage fuse or damaging your transformer (if a low voltage fuse or low voltage breaker is not present) if it touches the air handler body . I would not connect orange to the stat. This wire would be energized when a cooling demand is present.
Take the cover off the unit outside, and see where that orange is tied at.
Orange is going to be defrost (D or W).
I'll check/verify the connection on the outdoor unit. It will probably be on the weekend since it gets dark so early. I'll post what I find then - Thanks.
Tags: rheem, heat, pump, thermostat, blue blue, outdoor unit, handler purple, orange wire, black black, blue blue yellow, blue yellow, brown handler