Hi: Have replaced old cast iron with pex. Kept cast iron radiators (hot water) on first floor. Second floor used fin and tube. Created 2 zones. Original thermostat is two wire, hooked into burner control. This wire was disconnected, and will be wired to one of the zone valves ,White-Rodgers type 1311-102 0743 the other zone will be controlled by a programmable thermostat. It has 3 wires. it is to be connected to a White-Rodgers type 1361-102 0741. I am hooking up a transformer (24v) for the valves. Problem ? The diagram shows 2 wires from the t-stat what do I do with the 3rd wire? How are these connected to the burner control? Diagram shows a T 1 and a T 2, but my controller has just T T. System has been pressure checked (air) but will need to be filled. Can I check that everything is working before firing the boiler. It's 20 degrees outside I don't want to have any freeze ups. Can you post a link to the diagram you are looking at ? www.partsguy.com/pdf/1311troublshoot.pdf OK, I'm confused ... let's see if we can clear this up. Original system had only 1 zone. Controlled by a 2 wire thermostat, connected directly to the boiler. You created a new zone, and installed a W-R 3 wire zone valve on each zone. I think you are saying that you want to use the existing 2 wire thermostat to run a W-R valve ... you can't ... those valves require a 3 wire thermostat. The diagram shows 2 wires from the t-stat what do I do with the 3rd wire? Which diagram shows a 2 wire thermostat ? I don't see that. All the diagrams that I see show 3 wire thermostats. One thing to keep in mind when looking at the wiring diagrams is the fact that terminals 2 and 5 on the zone valves is electrically the same point. The reason their diagrams show T1 and T2 is because they are showing the designators on their own brand of relays, not Honeywell's ... There will be only TWO wires coming from the zone valves going to the TT terminals on the control at the boiler. I believe this will work: My apologies, further explanation. The fellow who redid the system was knowledgeable, to a point. I had thought to use the original 2 wire t-stat for one zone and a 3 wire programmable for the 2nd zone. I went in the hospital for scheduled surgery. When I came home, he called and said he didn't know hook up the wiring for the valves and t-stats. The supply house sold him a W-R 1361-102 and a W-R 1311-102, but he only got the instructions for the 1361. These show a 2 wire t-stat. I sent you the instructions for a 1311, which shows a 3 wire t-stat. I should have looked at it better. Try this, www.whiterodgers.com/007-5422.pdf It is for the 1361-102. The control box is a Honeywell Aquastat relay L8148A Gotcha... one 3 wire, one 2 wire, then two wires to the boiler ... I'll edit the drawing ... standby ... This one might ... http://www.white-rodgers.com/wrdhom/...e.htm#1361-102 Is this what you needed ?
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hello everyone I recently cleaned up the carburetor on my weedeater xt200 trimmer as no fuel seemed to be getting to it. In the process of doing this, the fuel line broke off in the tank. I replaced this and put it all back together but now there is no fuel getting to the primer bulb.it will not draw. Being the genius mechanic that I am (not!),I think I just hooked the fuel line up wrong. There are two lines coming from the carb to the fuel tank. The draw line enters the fuel tank at the top near the cap and go's right to the bottom of the tank and has a filter on it. The other line also enters at the top of the tank but to the best of my recollection only go's in a short distance and just sucks air. Please forgive my ignorance but is this correct? or does the return line (I think it's called) actually go into the gas supply? .also on to which nipple does the draw line go once it leaves the tank?........I guess I became more confused when I read this quote from a couple of years ago that to me suggests the presence of a third line which I have no recollection of........any help would be much appreciated. thanks QUOTE from a previous post: Yes,the line that has the fuel filter on it should be long enough to reach to the bottom of the tank (no matter in any position) And this line goes to the fuel pump side of the carb.The other is just a return line,it just pokes through the bottom of fuel tank 1 or so.And it hooks onto the shortest nipple on the primmer.And another line goes from the longest nipple on the primmer to the other fitting on the carb. Yeah,you're right.the fuel hose with the filter on it comes off the bottom (fuel pump side)of the carburetor,and goes to the loagest nipple on the primmer bulb.The return line comes off the shortest nipple on the primmer bulb (if memory servs) and only sticks into the fuel tank a little way.If primmer doesn't fill up with fuel reverse lines on primmer bulb. If you still can't get the primmer pulb to work then your carburator is clogged and is in need of cleaning and/or rebuilt.
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I only see 7 postings on this site. I want to do some research on change a V belt on the cooler motor. Is it possible to bring up past postings to look or should I start a new thread? Thanks I need to replace my V Belt and need some directions. Do I just remove half the pully wheel or do I have to loosen the motor up enough to put the belt in the pully? Thanks Hi, loosen the boltnut on the motor and slip the belt off. when you tighten the new belt up you want a 1/2in play on the belt, hope this helps. If you access your posts from New Posts, go to the right side and click on Swamp and Evaporative Coolers. Or go to it through Community Forums page. Go to the bottom of the page and you will see Options. Click on From and you can go back at least a year for past posts. You may want to start a new Thread for a certain answer to a question. Hello: Blkcat16 (The two single threads have been merged into one here) Makes it easier to read and follow along for all viewers.... Changing a swamp cooler drive belt isn't difficult. Very much the same as a belt on a cars engine. If you are handy with hand tools, it's easy to do. Be sure the electrical power to the cooler is OFF before starting the job. Then simply loosen the bracket bolts on the motors mounting frame. Then slide the bracket in wards slightly. Just enough to loosen the belt for removal. Remove worn belt. Check the new belt to verify if it is the same size and thickness, v shape and size. Or simply compare belt size numbers or take existing belt to local hardware store for a exact duplicate. Once you obtain the correct belt, if you do not already have it, install it exactly as the old belt was installed prior to removal. Then pull back on motor bracket to tension up belt and re tighten securing bolts, etc. Job should be done.... Turn on electrical power, stand back some and turn on cooler. If cooler is roof mounted, do not stand back too far...may fall off roof!.... All should be fine. Re install louver panels and exist roof if need be. Job done. Refer to sticky note in this topic for more details. Winterizing Swamp Cooler. No real need to search anything or anywhere else. All right there. Disclaimer Note: Above is only the basics. Variations can apply and often do apply. Varies by brand, model and locations. Swamp coolers in window mounting and roof mountings usually close, if not internally, all the same. RV coolers all together different. Sharp Advice. Business Management Services. Web Site Host, Forums Manager, Hiring and Promoting Agent Moderator Team Leader. Personal Driving Safety Reminder: Buckle Up Drive Safely. The Life You Save, May Be Your Own. Thanks. I believe I can do it now. Blkcat16 If you look on the face side of the old belt you should see 4 numbers , that should give you the size of the belt you need. Might also see if you have oil ports on the blower bearings and oil them and motor if it has ports on it. ED
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would a dremel be a good thing to sharpen knifes and lawnmower blades with? i have used it sharpen my old blade for practice and it seems like it does a good job but does anyone know if it would get the job done? i have the regular grinding stone and i have a grinding stone that is shaped with a point shape, which should i use? A whetstone (water, oil or diamond) will give you a much better edge on a knife than a Dremel grinder. For a lawnmower blade, the amount of steel which usually needs to be removed would exceed what you could reasonably do with the tiny Dremel stone. If you don't have a bench grinder, you could do a better (and faster) job with an inexpensive drill mounted grinding stone. Hello: littleworker The hand held Dremel power tool is not designed for sharpening the tools you need sharpened. Kitchen knives must have straight and flat cutting edges with the proper cutting angle to be effective. Such cannot be obtained with the Dremel hobby power tool. Closest possible to a professional power tool would be the grinding wheel with a fine grit wheel or a belt sander with a fine grit belt. Almost any lost cost electric power kitchen knife sharpener will do a better final job for knife sharpening than the hand held Dremel power tool. Worth the cost to buy a power kitchen knife shapener than ruin the existing knives you already have, in my opinion. Basically the same for the mower blade as with the kitchen knives. Belt sanders or grinding wheels work well for the non professional do it yourself mower blade sharpening needs. Mower blades must be rebalanced once any sharpening has been done. Failure to balance the blade will cause mower vibrations. The vibrations will damage the engines crankshaft oil seal, resulting in oil leakage engine internal parts damage. Already posted are several questions with replies on the topic of mower blade sharpening balancing. Reading them would provide much more information and helpful ideas and suggestions. Below are help links too. MOWER BLADE SHARPENING LINK: DIY Web Sites Mower Blade Sharpening Link: http://doityourself.com/lawn/sharpmowerblade.htm DIY Sharpening Link: http://www.tskgrinding.com/ Nationwide supplier of industrial knives and sharpening supplies. Regards and Good Luck, Sharp Advice. Web Site Host, Forums Monitor and Sharpening Forum Moderator. Accurate Power Equipment Company. Complete Saw and Tool Sharpening Services. Reminder: Work Shop Safety Is No Accident. Yes, you check out Dremel Attachments on our website, including the Dremel Lawn Mower Blade and Garden Tool Sharpener. Click xxxxxxxxxxxx Enjoy! littleworker I would have to disagree with the first two post and agree with blokemn. Most of this season I have sharpened my lawn mower blades w/the dremel attachment. Believe me thefirst time was a pain cause I havent sharpened my blades in two yrs, had alot of material to remove, just get your self a level for the blade to make sure it is balanced and have fun w/the dremel. ~Michael Dremel is a delightful tool for jobs requiring finesse. For sharpening we don't want finesse - accurate geometry is the thing. OK for lawnmower blades only because lawnmower blades don't really matter.
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I have a one year old CS30 and since day one it hasn't run right. It starts quickly but once it warms up it won't idle and wants to shut down when I give it gas. Unless it's wide open it won't run. I tried some one elses suggestion on cleaning out the spark arrestor and exhaust port but they're clean. You will probably need to clean and put a new diaphgram and gasket kit in the carb and while you're at it check the fuel lines. Take a picture or draw a diagram of the fuel lines before you remove them, for reference on reassemble. Even though the trimmer is only 1yr old to you the carb may have set on the shelf a long time before it was put in the mfg process and the diaphgram had dried and stiffened. Make sure your fuel is fresh(fresh from the pump not fresh from a can that has set since last year). Have a good one. Geo Thanks Geo. I actually thought of that, I had the same problem with an old Toyota pickup truck, but I didn't think the diaphram could go bad so quickly, but you make sense about not knowing how long that part sat around before it got used. Now all I have to do is figure out get the air filter housing off. I can't see what's holding it on - the only fasteners I can see are in the housing behind the foam filter. There are two nuts fastened to two studs going through the carb into the intake port. I can't see anything else that could be keeping he housing from coming off. Look at pg. 19, cut and paste Here's the URL for the owner's manual: http://oneworld1.inetu.net/manuals/r...00_401_eng.pdf Have a good one. Geo Originally Posted by geogrubb Look at pg. 19, cut and paste Here's the URL for the owner's manual: http://oneworld1.inetu.net/manuals/r...00_401_eng.pdf Have a good one. Geo Thanks, Geo, but page 19 only shows get the front cover off to service the filter, but not get the entire housing to come off. There are two studs with nuts behind the filter. These two studs seemingly attach the housing and carb in place on the engine block. But even with those nuts removed the housing won't budge. the entire carb will rotate a tiny bit but that's it. Well, I called Ryobi to get a diaphram for the carb and they told me they don't sell carb parts - had to buy a whole new carb for $50. What a racket. I'll never buy another Ryobi lawn tool again. A lot of manufacturers don't offer carb parts, becasue they don't make the carbs. The carburetor is a walbro or zama, and parts are available from them or most any small engine shop. An entire rebuild kit should be around $15 or less. Picksix The 2 studs you found are the ones that hold the carb on, it may be stuck and take a little pressure to break loose from the crankcase. Be sure to diagram your fuel line routes for reassembly. Have a good one. Geo Thanks, Geo. I'll give it a nother shot tonight. And thanks to Cheese also for the carb mfgr info. After you determine the carb mgf. walbro/zama find the carb type and number. It will probably be a zama you can go to either mgf site and find tons of info. kits numbers for rebuilt or just diaphgram and gasket, I would say as new as your trimmer is you will just need a diaphgram kit. The sites; www.zamacarb.com then select service/aftermarket and www.walbro.com then select service/aftermarket. Have a good one. Geo Originally Posted by geogrubb After you determine the carb mgf. walbro/zama find the carb type and number. It will probably be a zama you can go to either mgf site and find tons of info. kits numbers for rebuilt or just diaphgram and gasket, I would say as new as your trimmer is you will just need a diaphgram kit. The sites; www.zamacarb.com then select service/aftermarket and www.walbro.com then select service/aftermarket. Have a good one. Geo Yep - I did a lot of searching and found both sites already. And as you said it's probably a Zama. I just need to get home and look for the model/series number on the carb (apparently the numbers are split up and located in two different spots on the carb) so I can order the right parts. As far as I can tell they only come in kits. But for about $10 I don't mind having a few extra parts - I'm sure I'll need them evetually. After you get the number, it will probably be a CU1 something , you can go to the zama site to find the number for the diaphgram kit, if you have a local small engine shop or lawn service dealer, they will have the kit and you won't have to pay shipping. Have a good one. Geo Well, I got the carb off and got the numbers so I know what to order from zamacarb.com. But I took it apart and checked out both the surge and metering/pump diaphrams and I have to say they both look good. I held them up to very bright light and saw no imperfections or holes or anything. I'll still get the new ones because I know there could be damage under the metal partof the metering diaphram that won't shine through behind a light, but I have a strong feeling the problem is not the diaphrams but with the mixture adjustment. My next job is to find a tool that will fit in the narrow housing to reach those adjustment screws. The carb is a CU1-H62. It's not holes that create the problem with the diaphgram it's flexability. Have a good one. Geo Well, asfter doing nothing more than replacing the fuel with premium and Ryobi synthetic two-stroke oil the machine runs much better and actually idles now, although it still wants to stall when I give it gas. I'm still trying to locate a tool to reach teh idel mixture screws - after exhastive searching I can't believe nobody has this. [ I had the same problem and on mine all I did is remove the cover for the start/run switch. It was stripped in the inside and was jammed , so no advance from choke. I used pliers to put switch in run position and have not had a problem since. Good luck and hope this helps, I had carb apart and al , just wound up putting all that back together...mike
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Hello all, Not sure what to do. We have nice granite countertops in our kitchen. (recently purchased the house) but the undermount sink needs to be replaced. Can we take up the granite and replace the sink without causing a lot of damage to the cabinets or countertop as we would want to reuse the countertop again. Not sure if this can even be done. Thanks for any advice. Can't you access the sink from underneath? The undermount sink has a lip that basically allow it to sit on top of the edges of the cabinet/plywood cutout. The granite is then on top of the plywood and sits on top of the lip so that it looks built in. Ouch....that seems like a silly way of doing it. From what I know...removing the granite would be asking for an expensive replacement. Would it be possible to cut the old sink out and use a drop-in? I'm with Vic - given what you have, my first thought is to cut the plywood so the existing sink can fall out rather than lifting the granite. Thanks, yes the drop in is second on the list and probably a LOT less expensive. I just thought I would see if option 1 would even be possible. I'm sure the plywood is screwed into the cabinets and then they used some type of glue to glue the granite to the plywood. Probably a lot more work and cost. Thanks And I sorta meant just cut the sink up near the lip with a grinder and leave the lip sandwiched between the ply and the granite. If you have plywood under the granite, you may have 2 centimeter thick granite. If that is the case, you will want to leave the plywood in tact. Do not cut it. Vic's idea of cutting out the sink itself might work. 2 cm thick granite would make the plywood structural and render my suggestion a bad idea I replaced an undermount sink that had granite countertops. The sink lip DID NOT extend over the cabinet sides. The sink was supported on each side with a 2X4 on it's side that was screwed into the cabinet. Take a look underneath yours to see what's what. Replacement was a simple matter of removing the center stile of the cabinet along with the doors. After disconnecting and removing all of the drain and supply piping and the faucet/sprayer assembly I lowered the sink and took it out through the cabinet opening. The new sink went in the same way. I used cabinet jacks to position and support it. The only oops that happened is that I messed up the cabinet stile when I removed it and I ended up making a new one. Be aware that when I said it was a simple job that doesn't mean an easy one. My sink was a double bowl cast iron and it weighed a ton. It took two of us to replace it. This is how I did it, and I have it done at least three times with great success: 1. Loosen the bond between the sink and the granite and the plywood under. This can be done by patiently inserting a 2 putty knife in between. Use hanheld hacksaw if screw is encountered. 2. Remove all plumbing connections and put a stack of wood under the sink to support it. 2. Cut the sink around the perimeter from the top with a grinder. Yes the sink will fall and the support you placed under the sink will catch it. It is important to control this fall or else you may damage the granite. 3. Now, your sink is gone but the outer perimeter piece is still between the wood and the granite. Re-separate the remaining part of the sink from the granite and the wood, using the putty knife and hack saw id screwed. 4. From under the counter, extend the cut(cutting through the wood) on corners to have four separate remaining sink parts. This step will let you easily pull those remaining parts of the sink. 5. Fill the cut wood with good wood glue. 6. Install your new sink as top mount. This is the simpliest. 7. Installing the new sink under-mount is posible, and I have done it, but more steps are needed such as, trimmint he under wood to receive the new sink, then installing/glueing 2 x 3 lumber under-around to hold the sink. This steps is more complicated and ambitious. I suggest stick with step #6.
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This should be simple but I'm not 100% sure about the wiring...My current Honeywell Chronotherm III model # T8601C1021 has failed (keeps deleting the return program). I want to replace it with the Honeywell VisionPro Model # TH8110U. The installation instructions for the VisionPro show a jumper between the R and Rc terminals where on the Chronotherm III there is no jumper, in fact there is no terminal screw at all at the Rc position. So the question I have is do I leave the jumper in place on the VisionPro or remove it and only have a wire going to the R terminal? Current wiring at Thermostat: O - No wire W - White wire G - Green Wire C - Red Wire R - Red Wire Rc - No terminal screw or wire B - No wire Y - Yellow wire Current wiring at Heater Control (ArcoAir/Inner City Products Furnace Control Model 50A50-112): Y - Yellow wire to thermostat and outside AC compressor (ArcoAir Model AD042G) W - White wire to thermostat R - Red wire to thermostat and wet switch (red wire) G - Green wire to thermostat C - Red wire to thermostat 2 wires of wet switch (Green Black) Additional orange wire from the wet switch goes to a red wire that goes to the outside AC compressor. I know this is a lot of wiring info for what is probably a very simple question but I figured too much info is better than not enough. Thanks. Originally Posted by jedicarl The installation instructions for the VisionPro show a jumper between the R and Rc terminals where on the Chronotherm III there is no jumper, in fact there is no terminal screw at all at the Rc position. Some older stats had to work with one system only, now most newer one can work with two.. So being you have one system, the jumper stays. Other than that, it will be a easy swap out. Is your furnace a 90% or what? C - Red Wire R - Red Wire Be sure you make note what red wire went to C, or you may burn up the transformer. R - Red wire to thermostat and wet switch (red wire) C - Red wire to thermostat 2 wires of wet switch (Green Black) Not sure what you mean by the wet switch? Is this a cut off switch for a pump? Originally Posted by Jay11J Is your furnace a 90% or what? I don't know, it was installed in 1993 and I can't even find the nameplate label. It's an ArcoAir GNI Series, Inducted Draft, High Efficiency Upflow/Horizontal Gas Fired Furnace. I have the installation manual and operating manual but neither lists the specs or the efficiency. I did find a label that said the input is 80,000 BTU/hr and the output is 64,400 BTU/hr...64,400/80,000 is 80.5%...not very efficient. Originally Posted by Jay11J Be sure you make note what red wire went to C, or you may burn up the transformer. Thanks, I already decided I would need to be very careful to label the wires since I have 2 red! Originally Posted by Jay11J Not sure what you mean by the wet switch? Is this a cut off switch for a pump? No, it's a water leak monitoring device. It sits in the overflow pan underneath the AC coils...it shuts off the system if the primary drain system malfunctions and water starts to collect in the overflow pan/drain system. Thank you very much for your reply, I assumed that I would leave the jumper on for my system set up, but you know what they say about assuming... Originally Posted by jedicarl I did find a label that said the input is 80,000 BTU/hr and the output is 64,400 BTU/hr...64,400/80,000 is 80.5%...not very efficient. As mild your winters are, 80% is fine. In the installer set up menu, #240, I know the book says put it to 5, but I would suggest you to set it to 3. (Longer run time, less cycle on and off) Thanks, I already decided I would need to be very careful to label the wires since I have 2 red! Take a marker, or tape and label it C No, it's a water leak monitoring device. It sits in the overflow pan underneath the AC coils...it shuts off the system if the primary drain system malfunctions and water starts to collect in the overflow pan/drain system. After I sent the post, then figured that what it was. See below question. R - Red wire to thermostat and wet switch (red wire) C - Red wire to thermostat 2 wires of wet switch (Green Black) Additional orange wire from the wet switch goes to a red wire that goes to the outside AC compressor. Is there 4 wire total on this switch? Have any info on this switch? Where is the white wire from outside go to? The reason I am asking is that I find it odd that the switch is wired between R and C, and if it close, it will short out and burn out the transformer or fuse (if it has one on the board) Originally Posted by Jay11J Is there 4 wire total on this switch? Have any info on this switch? Where is the white wire from outside go to? The reason I am asking is that I find it odd that the switch is wired between R and C, and if it close, it will short out and burn out the transformer or fuse (if it has one on the board) I didn't install the wet switch myself, my HVAC service guy did...I'll post a couple of pics to see if that helps. There are 5 wires coming from the wet switch (gray wire bundle at the bottom center of the picture): Black and Green are wired together and then to C on heater Red goes to R on heater Orange goes to a red wire which goes outside to compressor White is not used On the right side of the picture by the wire nut is the brown bundle that goes outside to the compressor. Only 2 wires are used: Yellow goes to Y on heater Red goes to the orange wire on wet switch Thanks for trying to sort this out for me...I decided not to try the Test function of the wet switch if it might fry the transformer. Oops, I guess I'm not allowed to post attachments yet, so no pictures. Send me your email in a PM and I'll email you the 2 pictures, one of the wet switch and one of the wiring. Thanks. I did find a link to the installation instructions from the switch manufacturer: http://www.diversitech.com/applicati...t%20Switch.pdf Maybe this note at the bottom of the first page of instructions is indicating what he did...when the switch gets wet the compressor stops running: CONTROLLING SELECTED COMPONENTS To stop selected components of a system such as compressors, electric valves, condenser pumps, chill water pumps or other 24VAC controls, wire the wet switch to break the common to just that control. Ok, I looked at the manual, and it is wired up right. The switch is a Solid State control with a LED light, so that's why it has all these wires and wired to Common. Yours is wired up to shut down the unit outside if there was water in the pan. Thanks a bunch Jay, I appreciate your assistance. I just ordered the new stat, I'll hook it up as soon as it arrives. Glad to help. Honeywell did a very good job with these stats. I used to have the VisionPro for about 2 years, then upgraded to the IAQ 2 years ago.
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As I mentioned in my recent post on garage door openers, I have a problem with a party in my neighborhood that has been stealing and vandalizing my property for some time now and has evidently used the information available on sites like YouTube to master the knack of picking locks. Like most garages, mine has a man door in addition to the conventional overhead vehicle door, and I'd like to secure this with a good padlock that a thief would find difficult to pick. Right now I have a Medeco deadbolt on the main entry door to my house and I realize that they make a padlock version too. But I'd rather not spend that kind of money to secure the garage. Are there any other padlock manufacturers that produce reliable padlocks at reasonable prices that would be fairly difficult to pick? Once again, any help will be very much appreciated. And thanks in advance for any assistance you guys can provide here. The weak link is often not how hard the lock is to pick but how easy the hasp can be pried loose or the padlock smashed or the doors hinges broken. I don't know how much you want to spend but I feel that less expensive locks tend to be more popular... and have more Youtube videos posted crack them. Seriously though, how much are you talking for a quality padlock? One theft or act of vandalism costs you how much? If you think a $100 lock will make a difference it seems like a small price to pay. If using a keyed padlock I would get one containing at least five pins. Another option would be to enclose whatever lock you choose in a steel shield to limit access or make access awkward. Simple shields to protect against sawing or hammering are common but having a local weld shop make a custom shield for you could be an option. Something that allows you to stick one hand up inside and insert a key at an angle could work. Relatively easy for you to stick your hand in and turn the key but with only one hand and access and no visual picking becomes considerably more difficult. I have not checked your other posts but have you considered a surveillance system? You can only reinforce the door so much before they use a saw and go through the wall. Hidden surveillance to catch them in the act might hopefully give the law ammunition it needs for a strong prosecution. As Pilot (Mama told me to fly Low Slow) Ray have indicated, if you've been hit several times, I'd consider multiple security improvements, even if you're convinced the entries have been due to lock picking, (which, by definition, means manipulation thru the keyhole, not slipping the latch or bolt externally). A mid-priced combination lock like the Corbin Sesame, (also sold under the Master Lock name, as well) will solve the lock picking/bumping problem. I suspect that once your thief sees you have a different lock, he will try the next-most easily-defeated barrier to the garage; common hasps from the big box store are pried off with a small crowbar. A thru-bolted hardened-steel hasp will improve matters considerably. Remember the saying, a chain is only as strong as it's weakest link certainly applies to physical security. Being a person that spends a lot of time in the bush, and with a lot of local mining and foestry companies in the area, I've seen a lot of ruggid theft deterants in my time (I don't break into places btw, just what I come across when hiking or mtn biking). One very common solution here is a padlocked slide bolt with a dog house (as we call them). Basically, the dog house (I believe they are known as padlock lock boxes), is a metal box that has an opening at the bottom to access the lock. This makes beating the lock impossible and in most cases, protects the hasp from the same type of fate. Trying to bump a pad lock in one of those will be a bit tougher. Another trick for these kids is to remove or cover any markings on the lock that would give away it's brand and or model. If using the dog house idea, a quick Plasti Dip coating over the lock would not only protect the lock, but hide some characters that may make picking the correct bump key a bit more tough. Finish this setup with a nice motion light pointing down at the lock area. It's very hard to see what you are doing in a dark spot (inside the lock box) with a light shining in your face. Motion lights are even better as with them turning off and on (normally go off for a second once the time limit is reached) the person's night vision is messed up for a bit. They also sell motion lights with built in game cameras. When we were moving across country we were shipping our belongings in a container we had to lock ourselves. I went to a locksmith and said I wanted the best padlock he had. He brought out a German disc lock and said this is what a lot of trucking companies use on their containers. Circular design makes them very difficult to hammer to pieces as the hammer will bounce off. Very difficult to take a sawzall/hacksaw to it as well. Company was called Abus I believe. I bought one and since then have seen them on hundreds of trucks since. I figured if shipping companies trust their load to these locks, they must be pretty good. Cost about $60. Google it. Great lock. The European Meroni brand has a unique padlock that is high security and stainless steel. It's called the luccotto. A web search will tell you more. Another option very similar to what GlobalLocky posted is to: 1. Use a padlock with a large enough hasp to get around your garage door track. Since it's located inside your garage the security of the lock is not a primary concern. Even a screwdriver, nut bolt or carabiner can serve much the same purpose. Simply anything to block the garage door track will work. 2. Very similar to the luccoto you can use a trailer hitch lock. They are available in most home centers and higher quality ones can be ordered online. If you are truly having trouble with someone picking your locks than a foreign, unfamiliar lock could be a curve ball to thwart your Youtube viewing thieves. But keep in mind that if they have access to that lock they are already inside your garage. Personally, I would install a hi-res security camera with night vision so the jerk gets arrested. To add to Wildbill's comment about the Disc locks: The Abus brand Discus lock (in the largest size) is a decent padlock, but be sure to avoid the Chinese-made clones that go under various other names (Buffo is one, I think) and look identical....they can be peeled apart. Even the Abus Discus is a hollow padlock, and it owes it's security mostly to it's protected-shackle design. The better padlocks are a little harder to find but use the protected-shackle design along with solid or laminated steel construction, and higher-security cylinders using technologies other than standard pin-tumbler. The cheapest and best way to secure a man door to the garage is with a couple 2x4 drop bars going across the interior of the garage. Google security drop bars if you don't know what I am talking about. As someone who specializes in forcible entry these are much harder to defeat than any lock out there and much cheaper. Just be sure to attach holding brackets to structural members many garage doors will have a frame that is steel that you can mount a lockable patio bolt to. Similar to a typical barrel bolt, but much more hefty, they are installed with 2 screws and have a long bolt that you can easily lock through the track. here is a link I found that shows (at the bottom) what I mean HardwareExpedited.com - Flushbolts Surface Bolts by Emtek very inexpensive and strong. Not sure if the Trakjam security bolt is available in the USA. But the product is specifically tailored for preventing those type of roller doors from being opened easily
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Hi Everyone: We are in the market for a new lawn tractor. Home Depot has various Cub Cadet models. What are the good and or bad points of Cub Cadet Lawn Tractors? As far as service or maintenance is concerned how reliable are they? How do they compare to other brands? Again, as far as service or maintenance is concerned? I have read good and bad things about them, that is why I am asking. Is there anything that we should know about the Cub Cadet Lawn Tractors before we purchase one? Is there any reason why we should not purchase a Cub Cadet Lawn Tractor? Should we consider another brand? If so, why? In general, is their a lot of time spent repeairing Cub Cadet Lawn Tractors? Thank you for your time, consideration, and cooperation. I hope to hear from you soon, David Bought the SLT 1550 at the beginning of the season. I've got about 18 hrs on it, so far it's been a good unit, haven't even needed to sharpen the blades. Parts are easy to come buy, as Cub has their info online. The GT model is slightly heavier, bigger tires, 4 more deck and a slightly higher rated hp engine, but the SLT will take the same accessories as the GT (they use the same frame) and it's about $500 less. Can't speak towards the other models. FYI, Cub Cadet is owned by MTD so you are in essence buying MTD. HD power equipment is not the same as at a power equipment dealer. Meaning the TORO you buy there is not the same TORO you buy t a TORO dealer. HD does not service equipment, dealers do. A tractor is a big investment, I recommend checking with local power equipment dealers in your area and trying to get the best deal. You may be surprised. Service/warranty wise in addition to quality you will be much better off. Most of the older machines you see around came from dealers. Big box machines usually get junked or parted out a lot sooner. There are reasons for this. Here is a great example. I just acquired a MTD 8-24 snowblower that the owner paid $800 for. Engine seized after 2.5 hrs. He swears he put oil in it they said he ran it without. He is out $800. I have a nice snowblower body with 2.5 hours on it for free. If bought from a dealer they would most likely have put the oil in, started it up for him and given a demonstration. Probably delivered it and done this at his home. There would be no warranty issue from the homeowners. God Luck and buyer beware Good luck HD power equipment is not the same as at a power equipment dealer. Meaning the TORO you buy there is not the same TORO you buy t a TORO dealer. No... they're the same; the john deere and toro tractors you see at HD are the same ones at the dealer. It's a common myth that the john deeres at HD are made by MTD. Anyway, you're better off going to a dealer for better service. We can agree to disagree, you will NEVER find the same exact model # at a dealer and at HD. The same goes with most everything else. Example. A delta single lever faucet you buy at a supply house may be model 43256, at HD it is 43256A. Looks identical, $40 difference. Now take it the apart. Supply house is all brass, you can replace seats etc. HD model is all plastic inside, becomes a throw away after 3 years. Supply house faucet will last 15+. Do the math, it is a no brainer. The Cub Cadet 1000 and 1500 series are basically MTD machines and are sold with different paint as Troy-Bilts, Yardman, Yardmachine, Bolens, White, and MTD, as well as several generic store brands. The 2500 and 3000 series are built much as the original Cub Cadets were with a heavy duty rear axle, shaft drive and stronger frames. If I was looking at Cub Cadet for a 15-20 year machine (homeowner use) I'd be looking at the 2500 and 3000 series machines. And irregardless of model or brand, I too would be buying it from a dealer, not a box store. My local dealer recently closed due to box stores coming in the area.... now I can't get parts without driving 45 minutes each way. He sold at the same price, but folks didn't even bother to stop in while on their way to Home Depot, Lowe's or Walmart for savings they really didn't even get. And I'm now out of a local mechanic with over 35 years experience. I agree with all the above for the most part. I'd personally prefer to stay away from the box stores. Not only because of lack of service and competent advice, but also for the obvious economic effects it has on small business. Buy from a local dealer and put food on a table, not profit in stockholders' pockets. He'll remember you and be there for advice, repair, etc... when the time comes. In the long run you'll save more and feel better about the purchase. If I were getting a cub cadet, it would be one of the better ones that bontai joe mentioned. I personally would not buy one of the cheaper ones even heavily discounted. I think if you are spending less than 3k, your best bet is usually an AYP product like craftsman or husqvarna. Over 3k and you can get a decent deere or simplicity/snapper. That's my take on it as a small engine repair shop owner/operator. Hope it helps. Originally Posted by msidan HD power equipment is not the same as at a power equipment dealer. Meaning the TORO you buy there is not the same TORO you buy t a TORO dealer. No... they're the same; the john deere and toro tractors you see at HD are the same ones at the dealer. It's a common myth that the john deeres at HD are made by MTD. Anyway, you're better off going to a dealer for better service. Agree with you here. MTD is making the tractors for many companies you see at the HD, Lowes and the like. One thing is that John Deere and Toro is that these two companies have taken the warranty and parts into their system so that if one needs warranty or parts, the dealer can handle it. The price that HD wants to sell these tractors at does not make sense for these companies to build them when MTD has a line and only makes some cosmetic changes that the average customer does not recognize. Toro has pretty much gotten out of the tractor building business and gone to the zero turn mowers along with its line of 21 and 22 inch walk behind mowers. When you work on these tractors daily you see many of the simularities and part interchangeablities. Fixed a MTD tractor last week with Toro Parts. Looked funny with a Black Tractor and Red parts. Toro and John deere are not made by MTD. Not even the cheap ones at home depot. MTD has nothing to do with them. Correction: I just did some research, and Toro has farmed out the production of their low-end mowers to MTD, apparently to make a mower cheap enough to compete in the low-end consumer market. From the info I gathered, Toro is still independent, and not owned by MTD. Deere no, low end Toro... yes. The LX and GT 2000 series machines are manufactured by MTD. Everything is MTD except the deck, which is stamped by Toro. Fact, not hear-say. Toro still manufactures the XL, 400XT and Classic series. I knew I should have checked further on the Toro before I said that. I haven't seen a Toro made by MTD yet (not many toros at all in my area) and had not heard of any correlation between the two. I stand corrected. Deere, I do know for a fact is not made by MTD unless something has changed in the past month or two. Originally Posted by oldchevy4x4 Deere no, low end Toro... yes. The LX and GT 2000 series machines are manufactured by MTD. Everything is MTD except the deck, which is stamped by Toro. Fact, not hear-say. Toro still manufactures the XL, 400XT and Classic series. I believe that Toro recently discontinued manufacture of the XL, 400, 500 and Classic series garden tractors. In fact I know that the Classic Wheelhorse design is now out of production, but that some dealers still have some in inventory. Toro is focusing on their Zero-turn models and selling the rebadged MTDs in the box stores. Shame to think of the Classic Wheelhorse design being gone like the 2 wheel Gravely and the tube frame Bolens.... I know the whys of these decisions, they cost too much in today's market place, labor costs, blah, blah...... but for me knowing the difference in quality of the Classic Wheelhorse vs. the box store MTD made Toro, I'll mourn the loss of another fine machine.
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I have a 42 cc poulan that i just can't get to start. It has brand new gas, i've removed the spark plug and it is sparking very well. But if i put the plug back in it just won't fire. If i dump in a shot of gas or ether right in the cylinder, it doesn't even pop. Its acting like when i stick the plug back in the cylinder, it isn't sparking, because i've pulled the plug out and sometimes its wet, and if i crank it over it'll burn off it i off. Any ideas? I'm maybe thinking something like piston rings? At this point i have the air filter out. Thanks Does it have good compression? If the plug is wet, it is flooded. If the original problem is flooding, then adding gas will only make it worse. Is this saw new to you so this is your first time trying to start it? Or, did it run fine last season and this is the first time trying to star it in months? When a saw won't start with the normal starting procedure I try having the choke off and hold the throttle wide open and give it several good pulls which sometimes helps if it was flooded. I had to change fuel lines in 3 saws this year, due to age. It happens. Of course if you are getting a wet plug, that may not be the case. My 4th saw was a Poulan 3400 Countervibe bow saw. Forget the fuel line replacement and take it to a repair shop. I had it torn down way too much and decided I couldn't change the lines. well this started when i first broke out the saw this summer from sitting all winter. It did run fine last year. It never fired or anything from the moment i tried this year, maybe its flooding every time i try it. I would think after pulling on it a million times it would clear out. I don't have a compression gauge but if i cover the spark plug hole with my finger, it does push and pull air. If you have compression spark it's flooding, I'll bet the ethenol in the fuel has rotted the diagraghams in the carb.. Install a carb kit you should be fine.. Roger Does the finger method measure 90 Lbs of compression?? Check diaphragms, the needle maybe being held open by hard diaphragm.
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I just bought a Traditions (Whitfiled) Pellet Stove that is burning Golden Fire Premium West Coast Pellets. 22 bags into unit so it is broken in. After 12-24 hours of continious running..... Glass gets really dirty brown ash specs, mostly on LEft side, on low and even medium pellet feed settings. It gets Cloudy on HIGH feed with a little brown ash. I am running Damper of 7, reduced the calibration of the pellet feed and increased calibration of the exhaust combustion blower... anything lower gets screen browner (a lot browner) with ASH. Can't even see throught the top of glass after 24 hours running on LOW heat/blower.!!! Thought this was a clean burning operation, pellets I mean, but not so! Dealer says this is normal. DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS UNIT TO ANY NEW BUYERS OF PELLET STOVES. Unless, if anyone else has a TRADITIONS from Whitfield, please respond if yours is NOT doing this! I will listen to how you have yours set or any factory corrections you may have had done? I am not happy with this unit and now have talked to folks who have quadrafire's and they clean their glass about every 20-30 DAYS of running. I would be happy with once a week ! I found that the lower hinge on the glass door was somewhat loose and out of alignment. I kept hearing a metal clunk sound when I closed the door and had to raise it to close. After Adjusting, now I have 2 streaks of clear window, but the middle, right and left sides of the window are still couldy / ashy. I suspect this is due to the fact that hte 3 window hinges at the TOP of the window are in the way of the air coing thru the window wash area. Poor design! Your dealer is correct. What you have to consider is pellets are not some miracle fuel, they are mainly compressed sawdust, which makes them...wood. When wood burns it creates 2 main things, ash and products of combustion (smoke and soot) The amount of soot created depends on how you run your stove, the make/model of the stove makes no difference, and the hinges are not affecting airflow. When the stove is slow or medium burning it is less efficient and produces more soot, thus covering the glass quicker. I have a Harman that will start to blacken the glass the first run after I clean it. Starting and shuting down the stove also causes incomplete combustion and more soot that covers the glass. Mine also seems to get covered most on the left. Pellet stoves aren't what I'd call clean burning, but they are easier to maintain than woodstoves. I vacuum the fly ash and clean the glass about every two weeks, the ash bucket I can usually leave alone till about a ton of pellets is burned. How often do you start/stop your stove? How often is it slow/low burning? The more you slow/low burn, the quicker the glass will get sotted up. Mostly on Med to High both blower and pellet feed. NO thermostat in use, so no cutting in and out. I made it 39 hours running (about 8 hrs of that on LOW overnight) and had to clean windows. You are correct, when on LOW I get more brown ash on window, when on Med / High I get more Soot (white cloudy look). But in either case I can not seem to make it past 2 elapsed days of constant running. I am using Golden Fire west Coast pellets which are great, because when I tried 3 bags og Lignetics. man, I had 3 times the ash everywhere ! After adjusting hinges though, I do get (2) distinct clear window looking streaks, instead of just (1) before adjustment. This is because the airwash system comes down from the top of the glass and there are three window supports on the top of the glass (left, right and center)... it is in between these supports where the air flow is that the glass stays fairly clear. Poor Design, they should have put window support on sides where gaskets already seal the window to the frame, i.e there is no airflow there on the sides. A fellow at work has a Quadra Fire insert (about 40K BTU) and he cleans glass once every 200 hours of running on Medium, with thermostat in use. I think I've got it the best it will do for me, sgort of removing the middle top glass support to allow air to flow down the center, but that is probably not a good idea because I guess they put 3 supports there because there needed (maybe- haha), so I won't. Thanks for providing me your input! Mine dirties up quicker than I thought it would as well, but when I think of the price I'm paying for heating oil, the dirty glass bothers me less A friend of mine has a Whitfield and his glass doesn't stay clean very long either, he also has a Harmon fireplace insert, same results. Thanks ! My next one will be to check out these Quadra Fires...., but that will probbaly be a while.... Finally got the vendor at Lennox to call me. He answered a lot of my questions. He said for the room I am trying to heat, all windows (28X22), vaulted ceiling, 2 storm doors, the traditions was the wrong choice. And, he apologized that the dealer did not clearly explain how dirty this unit burns. We cranked up the calibrations settings for pellet feed and combustion air to get the higher BTU rating. Beyond the calibration setings, the unit has (3) speed settings for pellet feed and blower speed (low, med, high). Do not run this unit on LOW as the glass gets brown very quickly. Much better on medium and mostly white cloudy look when on HIGH. We agreed, per my suggestion, no affect on warranty, to remove the center window retainer at the top of the window. Did that, and after 10 hours now only the left and right side of window getting cloudy, center area staying relatively clear. The placement of these (3) retainers in my mind is a poor design. They should have been put on the sides of the window where there is no air needed to come in at. I'll bet that would clear up most of the glass being dirty issue! As the air wash comes in from the TOP of the window, all across the unit, but that's where they put the retainers!@#$@@@### The left side of my glass is the worst as well, but I do allot of slow burning. My pellet feed and hot air blower settings ar infinetly variable, the combustion blower is entirely automatic, or I can set it manually, I keep it on auto. I read allot of reviews before I bought mine and did allot of research, but there's always surprises. I have had a Whitfield Advantage for the past 8 or 9 years.. my first one would blacken the window if I used cheap pellets, stayed clean for a week if I used really good pellets.. it finally died this past winter, so I bought the newer model of the Advantage, it has been running for 2 months and I've cleaned the window once.. emptied the ash can once, I run it on 3 with a thermostat attached.. it puts out more heat than the older model, runs cleaner, holds twice the pellets (2 bags).. can't complain about anything on it so far.. I'm jealous ! Man, 2 months and no glass cleaning !!! With my TRADITIONS only 1 year old, I am buying a HARMAN XXV, fully automatic. Sales are so backed up in Baltimore won't get installed until early November. Probably because home heating oil is going up folks are moving to pellets. So, in November I will have a 1 year old green enamel finish TRADITIONS. Works as well as a TRADITIONS can. ASKING Price $1250, paid over 2600.
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Hello, I have a water stain (brownish) on my bathroom ceiling. Problem has been corrected, and I don't expect a repeat. Would like to put Kilz Primer/Sealer over the stain. Since I don't expect any further leakage, can I use a water based Kilz instead of their oil based product ? Or, would the brownish stain would eventually bleed thru any water based Kilz, even though the stain is dry now ? The reason I ask, is that the ceiling is presently painted with a latex paint, and if I have to put the Kilz over the whole ceiling to make things blend well for the future topcoat of a regular paint, I know an oil based product like Kilz oil would probably not go over the presently latex painted ceiling well. Thanks, B. Latex primer/sealers do a poor job of sealing stains. Use the oil base original kilz or a pigmented shellac like zinnser's BIN. Both can be used over the latex paint. You shouldn't need to prime the entire ceiling unless the majority of it is covered by the stain Since the ceiling was recently painted, it should touch up well. Latex paint over the kilz will take longer to dry than it will over the latex but it should blend in within 24 hrs. The oil-base Kilz is the way to go here. One random side note: for situations in which water-base primer is called for, water-base Kilz is evil stuff. From reports here, I don't think it would be too much of a stretch to call it pathetic ooze not worth the can it is packaged in. SirWired It may depend on the lighting in the bathroom, but I think if you spot prime only - the spot (when painted over) will be glossier and / or a slightly different color (whiter - particularly if the finish paint is not very high hiding), than the rest of the ceiling. Stain blockers form very tight films which will hold out the subsequent coat of paint increasing the sheen. They are used as enamel undercoaters for this reason. Also, if the bathroom is not vented or not vented very well, I would use an oil (alkyd) stain blocker such as Kilz or Cover Stain instead of shellac. I would not use a water-based stain blocker for a water stain (as already noted) they are not very good stain blockers for water soluble stains. I always use Sherwin Williams Pro Block for my water stains. At least 9 out of 10 times it is successful. If not, I break out the Pro Block Oil. This gets it every time. If the stain is really dry, the latex usually works. I do this method because I do not like painting a ceiling with a spot oil primer with latex around it. Possible flashing. If I do use oil primer, I cover the oil primer with latex primer before the finish coat. Originally Posted by Robert111 Would like to put Kilz Primer/Sealer over the stain. Since I don't expect any further leakage, can I use a water based Kilz instead of their oil based product ? Or, would the brownish stain would eventually bleed thru any water based Kilz, even though the stain is dry now ? Most water stains will bleed through most latex primers It has nothing to do with further water damage, it's a stain thing Kilz latex products make poor stain blockers Kilz latex products make even worse primers They have poor adhesion and a high failure rate as primers Originally Posted by Robert111 The reason I ask, is that the ceiling is presently painted with a latex paint, and if I have to put the Kilz over the whole ceiling to make things blend well for the future topcoat of a regular paint, I know an oil based product like Kilz oil would probably not go over the presently latex painted ceiling well. You can spot prime the stain, then spot paint the area(s) to insure no flashing when painting your final all over coat
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